The Amazon

Brazil is a vast, vibrant and magnetic country situated in the central-eastern part of South America, and lapped by the Atlantic Ocean. This melting pot of cultures, ethnicities, and religions is a product of its patchwork past of local traditions, colonial rule, and the influx of immigrants. It is South America’s largest country, with a landmass comparable to that of the United States, and a mosaic of ecosystems that supports the largest array of flora and fauna on the planet. The Brazilian people are typically warm and friendly, while the country’s natural diversity lends itself to myriad travel experiences, from idyllic coastal holidays and riotous Carnaval celebrations to stopovers in the dynamic cities of Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. Adventures await outdoor enthusiasts in the enthralling Amazon jungle.

Currency

Brazil's currency unit is the real (plural = reais) and is made up of 100 centavos. The real is issued in denominations of 1 real (1 real notes have been discontinued but the coin is everywhere), 2 reais, 5 reais, 10 reais, 20 reais,50 reais and 100 reais. Prices are written in reais using the symbol R$. Centavos are issued in denominations of 5 centavos, 10 centavos, 25 centavos and 50 centavos. It's best to carry nothing larger than 10 or 20 reais bank notes. This will make it easier to make small purchases as well as easier for small vendors, stores and restaurants to provide you with change.

You will have no need for any reais until you have fully exited Brazilian immigration and customs so avoid exchanging money at your departure airport in North America or Europe. Money exchanges at departure airports outside Brazil usually provide a very poor exchange rate. Wait. The international airports in both São Paulo (Guarulhos International Airport) and Rio de Janeiro (Antonio Carlos Jobim International Airport) have several bank operated, money exchange booths just outside the immigration and customs area. Both cities also have money exchange offices throughout the city and some hotels offer currency exchange.

While it is relatively easy to exchange any currency for reais in both São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, in smaller cities it can sometimes become a time consuming and costly endeavor.

Banking

Banking hours are from 10:00 am to 4:00 pm, Monday through Friday.  Some HSBC branches open from 9:00 am to 6:00 pm.

ATM Machines of banks are generally open from 6:00 am to 10:00 pm (although it is common for the locks on the doors to be not operational).  Note that not all ATM machines accept international credit cards.  The machines that do accept international credit cards will have the symbol(s) of the types of international cards it accepts. Banks that typically have ATM machines that accept international credit cards are HSBC, Citibank and Banco do Brasil.

Generally, ATM machines that accept international credit cards are readily found in large cities.  However, if travelling outside the city or to remote areas, it will be much more difficult to find an ATM machine.  So plan ahead.

Foreign currencies can be exchanged in shops with signs showing 'Cambio'. The exchange rates given for exchanging cash are generally better than those from withdrawing cash from a credit card from an ATM machine (especially with all of the little fees most card companies charge these days).

Be advised that you may encounter difficulties trying to get cash on a weekend. Several foreigners (from Canada and the USA) have encountered problems getting cash from ATM's after 'normal'banking hours on a Friday.

Brazil has one of the largest internal air networks in the world, and there are air services between all Brazilian cities. With such great distances between many of the most popular destinations, flying can be a worthwhile option, saving considerable time and money. Internal flights in Brazil are possible with the shuttle service between Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, a regular service from Sao Paulo to Brasília and a shuttle service from Brasília to Belo Horizonte.

At weekends and main holiday times (i.e. Christmas and Carnival) it is advisable to book seats as the services are much used. Panrotas (www.panrotas.com.br) gives all timetables and fares for internal air travel. Gol (www.voegol.com.br) and TAM Airlines (www.tam.com.br) operate the largest number of domestic routes. Airport transfers are available between all major centres.

Always re-confirm flights (at least once); delays and over-bookings do happen. If you change any flights on your airpass be sure to cancel the original booking otherwise the airline may consider it a ‘no-show’ and cancel all your other flights.

Air passes for domestic flights are available on both TAM and Gol, with similar prices, ranging from US$532 for four flights (Gol), up to US$1,384 for nine flights (TAM). Air passes can be purchased only outside of Brazil and in advance of international departure. For more details, contact the airlines.

International car hire companies operate from major airports and main city centres; the most common are Avis and Hertz. The main Brazilian companies include Interlocadora and Localiza. Drivers are generally required to be at least 21 years old.

All major cities have a plentiful supply of taxis, particularly recommended late at night. Official taxis, such as the distinctive yellow-and-blue Rio taxis, are the most reliable; mini-cabs, with pre-paid tickets, are also available at international airports. Taxis are metered and passengers should insist that the meter is turned on: the day-time rate is shown by a little flag marked 1 on top of the meter. The higher rate - after 8.00pm, on Sundays and bank holidays - is shown by a flag marked 2. Outside of cities and main tourist sites, taxis may not have meters, in which case agree on the fare in advance. Tipping taxi drivers is not normal practice.

Brazil is not a bicycle-friendly country on the whole; only a few cities, such as Rio de Janeiro and Curitiba, have dedicated bicycle lanes. In view of the vast distances, heavy traffic and aggressive driving practices, cycling around the country is not recommended for most visitors.

Long distance coach travel is a great way to get around Brazil, with an excellent network of inter-city routes offered by hundreds of different companies. Fares are economical and coaches are safe and comfortable, with all the usual modern facilities. Luxury overnight services (leitos) connect the major cities and popular destinations such as Foz do Iguacu. There are no nationwide companies, but all cities have a central bus station (rodoviaria), where you can book your journey in advance with a choice of operators.

Passenger rail connections in Brazil are virtually non-existent, apart from a few inner-city commuter lines in Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. A few scenic tourist lines still run, notably the Serra Verde Express operating services from Curitiba to Morretes in Paraná, and from Campo Grande to Miranda in the Pantanal.

Ferries serve most coastal ports. One company, Barcas S/A, operates ferries between Rio de Janeiro and Niteroi, and between Angra dos Reis and Ilha Grande. The daily commuter ferry to and from Niterói is very popular, offering amazing views of Guanabara Bay, and much quicker than the long and often traffic-clogged road route.

River transport is the most efficient method of travel in the Amazon Delta. The main hub is Manaus, with ferries going eastwards along the Rio Amazonas, to Belém and Santarém, or upriver from Manaus on the Rio Solimões towards the Colombian border at Tabatinga. Many different companies offer regular departures from Manaus, operating out of the main port, Estacao Hidroviaria near to the Mercado Municipal.

Brazil's cuisine is as varied as its geography and culture. While there are some very unique dishes of regional origin, there are many dishes that were brought by overseas immigrants and have been adapted to local tastes through the generations.

Brazil's national dish is feijoada, a hearty stew made of black beans and pork cuts (ears, knuckles, chops, sausage and pieces of beef (usually dried). It's served with rice, garnished with collard greens and sliced oranges. It's usually not served in restaurants, but the ones that do typically offer it twice a week (usually on Wednesdays and Saturdays). A typical mistake made by tourists is to eat too much feijoada shortly after arriving. This is a heavy dish, and you need to get used to it before you eat it. Even Brazilians usually eat it parsimoniously. While you are at it, try the caipirinha, Brazil’s signature drink made of wedged limes, sugar and cachaca.

Tap water in Brazilian cities such as Rio and Sao Paulo is generally safe to drink, but it tastes awful. In remote areas, tap water may be suspect. Many hotels and guesthouses filter their water – be sure to inquire about the status where you’re staying. Vigorous boiling for one minute is the most effective means of water purification, though you can also use a water filter, ultraviolet light (such as a steripen) or iodine pills.

Due to its balmy tropical and subtropical climate, Brazil is an all-year-round destination. The Brazilian winter lasts for only three months from June to August. From December to February it's summer. The temperature varies within a year with monthly averages in winter between 13 and 18 degrees Celsius. During the summer, temperatures can reach 30 to 40 degrees Celsius in Rio de Janeiro and into the regions in the south, but accompanied by frequent showers and a rather heavy humidity.

During the winter it can get quite cool in the south of Brazil. In Florianopolis it can drop as cold as 2 to 3 degrees celsius. The south is probably best to avoid in the winter unless your plan on visiting the wineries in Bento Goncalves, Rio de Grande do Sul.

The clothing style in Brazil is generally casual and comfortable; more formal in cities such as Sao Paulo. Brazilians are proud of their bodies, they like to wear fitted clothing and show a little skin. Sao Paulo is an urban and cosmopolitan city; people like to dress up a little more, if you’re having a touristy day and visiting museum and cultural places etc. dress with a casual feel, think jeans, shorts and t-shirts/tunics.

Rio is also very casual, but with a cool edge, a lot of the locals go from the beach to lunch or for drinks, so carry a light dress or shorts and a t-shirt to cover up, bikinis are for the beach only. If you’re seen walking around in one, even on the boardwalk, you’ll definitely be pegged as a tourist.

Brazil is a huge country with different climates. During the summer it’s pretty much hot and humid everywhere. A main travel essential for Brazil would definitely be sunscreen, sunglasses and a broad sun hat.

For shoes, stick to flat shoes such as sandals, flip flops or comfortable walking shoes as you’ll likely be walking a lot.

Internet service is readily available in Brazil. Many hotels include (or offer for an additional fee for) high speed internet access, if not in the room or wireless, then at least somewhere in the hotel. Additionally, most larger Brazilian cities have Internet Cafés offering inexpensive, high speed internet access on their computers or yours.

From city to city, voltage varies from 110-220v. It’s not uncommon to arrive in a city to find out that the voltage is 110v and then to travel 1 hour north just to learn that it’s 220v in that particular city. Despite the difference in voltage, the outlets look the same. Make sure to check the voltage used in each city that you visit.

Electricity in Brazil is extremely unstable in some parts and can send surges to your electronic equipment that destroys its charger or transformer.The solution to this is to protect your electrical equipment by running them through a voltage regulator. They are fairly cheaply and  and easily available in most parts of the country

Brazilian plugs and sockets typically come as two flat pins or two round pins, the latter is being standardised for new appliances but variations do occur. Most chargers for phones, laptops etc already have a built in power adaptor so don't worry too much about the different voltage in different cities. It's things like hairdryers where you might want an power converter/adaptor.

Peru is most famous for the sacred archaeological site of Machu Picchu – visited each year by scores of intrepid hikers who brave the Inca Trail’s arduous slopes to explore the age-old ruins. The country’s attractions extend far beyond the mystical allure of this legendary location and include palm-fringed beaches, quaint Andean villages and archaeological treasures that predate Machu Picchu by hundreds of years – all imbued with the nation’s rich melange of indigenous and colonial cultures. Equally enticing are the exotic reaches of Peru’s Amazon rainforest; Lima’s superb eateries, exquisite architecture and effervescent nightlife; the glittering, mountain-ringed waters of Lake Titicaca; and the vibrant city of Cusco, referred to by the Incas as ‘the centre of the world’.

Currency

Nuevo (new) Sol (PEN; symbol S/.) = 100 céntimos. Nuevo Sol notes are in denominations of S/.200, 100, 50, 20 and 10. Coins are in denominations of S/.5, 2 and 1, and 50, 20, 10, 5 and 1 céntimos.

Note: US Dollars are also in use and accepted for payment, particularly in tourist areas. While effectively interchangeable, it is best to use local currency wherever possible, and it is always good for tourists to have some local currency in small denominations, to pay for buses, taxis and goods in some small establishments.

There are no restrictions on the import or export of local or foreign currency, but amounts exceeding US$10,000 must be declared.

Only a few bureau de change in Lima and Cusco will exchange currencies other than US Dollars. Outside Lima, it is virtually impossible. US Dollars can be exchanged everywhere and banks, hotels and many shops also readily accept US Dollars (although very old, torn or damaged notes are usually rejected). It is not recommended to exchange money from street vendors.

Banking

Banking hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1800, Sat 0900-1300 (may vary during the summer).

All major credit cards are accepted, but usage may be limited outside of Lima and tourist areas. Visa and MasterCard are the most commonly accepted. It is also sensible to carry some cash rather than relying only on cards.

ATMs are now generally regarded as one of the best ways to obtain money in Peru. They are found almost everywhere, including in small towns, although when travelling in remote places it is best to have some cash just in case the nearby ATMs are not working or have run out of money. In bigger cities, use ATMs inside banks for greater security, especially at night.

Banks will exchange traveller’s cheques although it can be a slow process outside Lima. The ability to use traveller's cheques is also quite limited in some areas so you should check whether or not they will be accepted in the area you are visiting prior to travel. The use of ATMs is generally preferable, but if you do decide to bring traveller's cheques, the best currency to bring them in is US Dollars.

LAN (LP) (www.lan.com), Taca Perú (T0) (www.taca.com) and LC Perú (W4) (www.lcperu.pe) handle virtually all domestic air traffic. Routes link Lima to Andahuaylas, Arequipa, Ayacucho, Cajamarca, Chiclayo, Cusco, Huánuco, Iquitos, Juliaca-Puno, Piura, Pucallpa, Puerto Maldonado, Tacna, Tarapoto, Trujillo, Tumbes and other cities. Flights to Huaraz are occasionally offered. For information on internal flights, contact the Peruvian Corporation of Airports (Corpac) (www.corpac.gob.pe).

When travelling around Peru, you have to make a decision: time or money? The bus from Lima to Cusco can take over 24 hours instead of a flight of about 1 hour 30 minutes, but it will be a fraction of the price. If taking a shorter trip to Peru, flights will leave you a lot more time at your destination.

You can book in advance from outside the country, or a few days in advance through local tour operators for not much more money. Some flights (of lower prices, and particularly with LAN) are for Peruvians only – if you purchase them be prepared to pay a fine. Domestic flight schedules are often subject to last minute change – try to confirm that your flight is leaving at the time stated on your ticket before you head to the airport.

International car hire firms have offices in all the major cities and bigger airports. You must be at least 25 to hire a car in Peru, and will need to present your passport, driving licence from your country, credit card as a guarantee and sometimes a cash deposit. The minimum driving age is 18. Seatbelts should be worn both in the front and back of a car, and also on coaches (though most people don’t bother). Theoretically, the speed limit is 100kph (62mph) on the highways and 35kph (22mph) in urban areas, but few Peruvians follows these laws. You can drive for six months on a UK driving licence and up to a year on an International Driving Licence. All foreign vehicles must have documentation from their own national automobile association or you can obtain it on the Peruvian border before entering the country. Always carry your driving licence, a copy of your passport and, if the vehicle is hired, a copy of the rental contract.

Main roads in Peru are, at least, reasonably paved; others can range from extraordinarily bumpy to impassable after landslides. Landslides are frequent in the mountains during the rainy season (December to March), making for slow travel and closed roads. Take care driving on the mountain roads, which are narrow, windy and above all high up. Local drivers who know the roads well go like the clappers, but if you try it you may well go off a cliff. The well-maintained Pan-American Highway runs down the length of Peru's coast, with intersecting highways running east into the mountains.

Many unlicensed taxi companies operate in Peru and visitors are advised to avoid these. They usually have a red and white taxi sign on the windscreen. Licensed yellow taxis are the only cabs allowed in downtown Lima. Taxis do not have meters and you should agree fares before departure (they are relatively inexpensive). Extensive and safe taxi services are available by telephone in main cities. Hotels and hostels will book them for you. Taxi fares increase by 35 to 50% after midnight and on holidays. Drivers do not expect tips.

Taking the bus is the travel method of choice in Peru; buses go in almost every direction. You can book yourself onto everything from a bus with seats that recline until fully horizontal and hostesses to bring you dinner, to a squashed-in place in the back of a pick-up truck, depending on your budget.

The crème de la crème of coach company in Peru is Cruz del Sur (tel: (01) 311 5050;www.cruzdelsur.com.pe). It’s the most expensive, but you’ll get a nice meal and a good night’s sleep. Other coach companies are Flores (tel: (01) 332 1212; www.floreshnos.net), Linea (tel: (01) 424 0836;www.transporteslinea.com.pe) and MovilTours (tel: (01) 716 8000; www.moviltours.com.pe). Otherwise just turn up at a bus station or ask around.

Public transport in Lima is provided by conventional buses and by minibuses (combis), though they are overcrowded, sometimes dangerous and not particularly useful for tourists. These operate from 06h00 to 00h00 on established routes; wherever possible, try to avoid using bus travel late at night. Lima has a clean, efficient metro system which links nine districts, and allows travel between Miraflores and Lima centre.

Peru Rail (tel: (01) 517 1884; www.perurail.com) runs comfortable tourist trains between Puno and Cusco and between Cusco and Machu Picchu. Ferrocarril Central Andino (tel: (01) 226 6363;www.ferrocarrilcentral.com.pe or www.rrdc.com/op_peru_fcca.html) runs a twice-monthly tourist service on renovated trains between Lima and Huáncayo. This spectacular route is the second highest railway in the world (the highest being in Tibet).

Drink only bottled water, and take purification tablets in case bottled water is unavailable. Pasteurised milk is widely available, but if you are staying in mountain towns you will also find that unpasteurised milk is often sold in shops, served in plastic bags. Avoid dairy products that are likely to have been made from unboiled milk.

Only eat well-cooked meat and fish. You will find that there is plenty of street food available in stores and at markets, and you should try to ensure that what you buy has been heated properly and not been left out. In particular, you will find lots of ceviche, a cold seafood dish made using raw fish, which is practically the national dish. It is heavily acidic, which must kill some bacteria; nevertheless be aware that unless the fish is very fresh the potential for food poisoning is high. Vegetables should be cooked and fruit peeled.

The weather in Peru varies according to area – the changes in altitude are so extreme that the climate goes from freezing snow in the mountains to boiling sun on the coast. Likewise, the coast covers such a large stretch of longitude that the temperature changes dramatically as you head further south.

On the coast winter lasts from June to September. The weather tends to be overcast and slightly damp at this time, but rarely very cold. It hardly ever rains in Lima nor most of the coast, except for Tumbes and Piura, which have tropical climates.

During June to September, the mountainous areas are often sunny during the day but cold at night. This is high tourist season and the best time to visit most regions. Rainy season in the Andes starts in September and peaks between January and March, and this is a dreadful and occasionally dangerous time to be hiking.

Heavy rains in the mountains and jungle last from December to April. It is rainy and hot for most of the year, but between March and September there are occasional cold surges which might require a jumper.

For travel in Peru, a variety of clothes are necessary. You will need very lightweight clothes for summer on the coast, and thermals, hats, gloves and ski jackets for winter up in the mountains. It can become freezing at night at altitude and remain hot and sticky through the nights in the jungle. Waterproof clothing is thoroughly recommended for the rainy season, because the heavens open very suddenly, and then it pours.

If you are travelling to the jungle you’ll need something protective and waterproof for your feet. For any mountain hiking you’ll need proper, supportive boots. If you’re spending time along the coast you’ll need sandals or flip-flops.

Electricity in Peru is 220 Volts and 60 Hertz (cycles per second). If you want to use a 110-volt appliance in Peru, you’ll need to buy a voltage converter. But always check before spending money on an converter, as many modern laptops and digital cameras can safely take both 110 and 220 volts (they are dual voltage).

Many of Peru’s top-end hotels have outlets for 110-volt appliances. They should be clearly labeled as such, but always check if you’re unsure.

There are two types of electrical outlets in Peru. One accepts two-pronged plugs with flat, parallel blades, while the other takes plugs with two round prongs. Many Peruvian electrical outlets are designed to accept both types.

If your appliance has a different plug attachment (such as a three-pronged UK plug), you’ll need to buy an adapter. Universal plug adapters are inexpensive and easy to carry around. It’s a good idea to buy one before you go to Peru (most major airports have a store selling plug adapters).