After being off-limits to tourists for two decades for big-cat research, this section of the eastern Serengeti is home to a staggering density of predators. The recently upgraded Namiri Plains has been designed to maximise views of the water source in front of the camp. Its 10 elegant and spacious tents — each with its own veranda and private outdoor bath — provide the perfect setting from which to watch the wildlife that congregates here to drink. When the Great Migration move into the area, the plains explode into action, with massive herds heading south to calve, followed by the big cats that prey on them.