Occupying a spectacular spot right on the rim of the Crater, Ngorongoro Crater Lodge is undoubtedly one of the most opulent lodges in Tanzania. Combining architectural hints of traditional Maasai homesteads with interior styles borrowed from European stately homes, the present lodge was built in 1995.

Don’t be fooled by the unassuming appearance of the lodge from the outside. Inside, grand antiques, gilded mirrors and local art compliment each other dramatically, resulting in a contemporary, smart, theatrical atmosphere. Crater Lodge isn't to everyone's taste: some will regard it as completely over the top, and not at all in keeping with the safari experience and local surroundings. However, if you're looking for something exceptionally special, and completely decadent, then it may be perfect.

Ngorongoro Crater Lodge is comprised of three separate intimate camps – North Camp (12 rooms), South Camp (12 rooms) and the smaller Tree Camp (6 rooms). Each has its own separate dining and lounge area, which helps to maintain a small and exclusive feel – even though the lodge has 30 rooms altogether.

North and South camps are set slightly higher up the hill than Tree Camp and are mirror images of each other. Tree Camp, however, sits literally on the edge of the Crater and – as the name suggests – is built amongst the trees, with views uninterrupted by other buildings. That said, the higher location of North and South lend a better perspective, and they also have larger rooms and a greater overall feeling of opulence.

The main lounge for each of the North and South camps is divinely decorated with wood-panelled walls, large beaded chandeliers, raw silk curtains and inviting velveteen sofas. The roofs are brilliantly crafted from banana leaves (a motif created by the designers, Chris Brown and Diane Fox), while Persian rugs adorn the floors and fresh roses are set out daily. Outside each, an expanse of decking is decorated with terracotta pots filled with Maasai spears, and a large fireplace provides the perfect setting for pre-dinner drinks as the moon rises over the Crater rim.

Tree Camp is similar in style but not quite so obviously extravagant. The décor is still artistic and imaginative, but without the same rather camp 'boudoir' flair. The snug atmosphere of its communal area is balanced by floor-to-ceiling windows – with a stupendous, uninterrupted view across the Crater – and a terrace below that is a truly amazing place for breakfast. Tree has a more rustic feel to it than North and South, being built around a strangler fig – but the thick velvet and fur, and crystal decanters, mean that you might be forgiven for thinking you've entered a stately home.

The large rooms, or manyattas, in all three of Crater Lodge's camps are essentially similar, except that two of them can be connected to create a vast suite, ideal for a family. Decorated with rich colours, chandeliers and wood-panelled walls, each room has a fireplace in the corner that is usually lit in the evenings by your personal butler. This makes it feel incredibly cosy at the end of a long day out on safari.

It isn't just the aesthetics of the lodge that are spectacular; the service is also top-class.. Each room is assigned its own personal butler, who is on hand should you want anything. While some people may be put off by the idea of having someone to wait on them, the reality is quite subtle. These butlers aren't ever-present servants; rather, they offer a high level of personal service, and a lot of the time you may not even notice their presence. But it does mean that when you arrive back after a long game drive, you may find someone standing in the car park with your preferred drink ready for you on a tray, and a bubble bath waiting for you in your room; or return from dinner to find you electric blanket switched on. It simply serves to enhance the luxury safari experience further.

The shop at Ngorongoro Crater Lodge stocks a fine array of high-quality curios, as well as clothes, toiletries and postcards. There's a fascinating and productive workshop right behind the shop which can be freely visited, and Maasai ladies doing beading often sell their wares outside. Since late 2016, there's also a bespoke jewellery shop, where custom-made tanzanite pieces can be commissioned.

Although you might expect to find a swimming pool at Crater Lodge, it's rather too cold at this 2,400m (7,900ft) altitude to swim. The climate does suit wine storage, however, and there's a well-stocked wine store: an ideal space for small private drinks receptions and dining, as well as wine-tasting sessions. The store also doubles as a TV projection room, on request. As an alternative type of relaxation to swimming, there is a variety of spa treatments on offer, with massages taking place in guests' manyattas (for an additional cost).

In terms of activities, the greatest draw is to head down into the Ngorongoro Crater. The lodge uses closed-sided safari vehicles designed for game viewing, with pop-top roofs. The drive from the lodge to the descent road and down to the Crater floor takes about 40 minutes and departure times are very flexible. You may wish to take a packed breakfast and return for lunch, or perhaps have breakfast at the lodge and take a packed lunch with you, returning in the late afternoon. To maximise your time on the Crater floor you can also go for an all-day drive.

While games drives in the Crater are the main reason to stay here, guests can also visit the Olduvai Museum or perhaps hike the Olmoti or Empakaai craters. Back at the lodge, it is also possible to take a short 30–60-minute walk with the on-site naturalist between North Camp and Tree Camp to find out about the various species of plant and wildlife. There is a suggested donation of US$20 for this, all of which funds the planting of seedlings in the Crater conservation area; by late 2016, 60,000 trees had been planted as part of this initiative so far.

Near Tree Camp, there's a sundowner spot where Maasai dancers sometimes perform by arrangement at an additional cost (usually US$60 per person). Blankets are laid out on the grass and it's a fine way of spending an hour before the sun goes down.

Conservation Safari Company recommends Ngorongoro Crater Lodge as a unique property. For some it is completely over the top and out of place; for others it's the height of luxury. The whole Maasai-meets-baronial-manor concept is extraordinary; the food, service, rooms and general facilities are excellent; and the location is outstanding, with stunning views over what many regard as the world's top wildlife area. But it's also one of the most costly lodges in Africa!

Rates are fully inclusive of meals, drinks and safari activities - and we always include the crater descent fee in our quotes.