Bolivia & Chile: Two Countries, Two Worlds

Home to ancient traditions and cultures that are fast disappearing, Bolivia is the continent’s most indigenous country, with 60% of its inhabitants descended from Native Americans - a rich heritage that is evident in the local art, cuisine, music and traditions. Equally as fascinating is the incredibly diverse landscape, stretching from the central Andes to the Amazon Basin and encompassing a terrain that includes snowy peaks, the world’s highest navigable lake, rainforests, dry valleys, and volcanoes both active and extinct. Whether you are in search of colourful festivals, ancient remains or an outdoor adventure, Bolivia is a tourist’s treat waiting to be discovered.

Currency

Notes are in denominations of 200, 100, 50, 20, 10 and 5 bolivianos. Coins are in denominations of Bs5, 2 and 1, and 50, 20 and 10 centavos. Bolivianos are sometimes referred to as pesos.

The Boliviano is tied to the US Dollar. Due to the relative weakness of the Bolivian economy, the boliviano remains vulnerable and so many businesses operate in US dollars. Most hotels and tour operators quote in dollars and will accept payment in either currency. Smaller shops, stalls and local businesses will only accept bolivianos.

Change and coins are in very short supply in Bolivia, which is something of a vicious circle as local buses, shops and taxis often won’t accept big denomination notes. Try to break big notes wherever possible – namely hotels, restaurants, large stores and bus companies.

There are no import restrictions on local and foreign currency; export restrictions on both local and foreign currency are up to the amounts imported and must be declared.

Banking

Banking hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1200 and 1430-1700, and Sat 0900-1300.

MasterCard and Visa credit cards are the most widely accepted in most mid to top range hotels and restaurants, but otherwise have limited acceptance. American Express is rarely accepted. It is best to carry cash with you.

There are ATMs in most of the larger towns and cities. Even the smaller towns have at least one bank with an ATM, and there are ATMs available at the larger airports. Enlace is the nationwide network from which you can withdraw either US dollars or bolivianos. Sometimes in smaller towns, banks will offer international withdrawals for a small fee over the counter.

US Dollar and Euro travellers’ cheques are accepted in the large cities, but outside the cities they are useless. Pound Sterling travellers’ cheques are not widely accepted. It is best to carry cash with you when travelling to smaller towns.

Money can be changed in hotels and casas de cambio. There are also plenty of money street changers if there are no official exchanges available, but be sure to check for forged notes in these cases. The boliviano is the preferred currency with exchange against the euro now preferred to the dollar.

Internal flights are operated by Boliviana de Aviación (www.boa.bo). Flights to the Amazon are largely operated by Amazonas (www.amaszonas.com) from La Paz, Cochabamba and Santa Cruz. Because of the country's topography and tropical regions, air travel is the fastest, but not the cheapest method of transport (US$50-$100), although delays, cancellations and unreliability are common. La Paz (El Alto), which is the highest airport in the world, and Santa Cruz (Viru Viru) are the principal domestic air hubs. Busier routes should be booked a few days in advance, and it is important to reconfirm the day before departure. The is a mandatory departure tax of around Bs14, payable in bolivianos.

Bolivia’s size, geography and lack of basic infrastructure means that travel by road can often be a tumultuous, long and scary ride, yet it is still the first choice mode of transport for travellers and Bolivians alike. Most major roads are paved but in bad condition. Vehicles often have to take unpaved, dirt tracks. There are main highways entering and exiting major cities like Santa Cruz and La Paz. B roads are unpaved but widely used. Few travellers rent cars. Virtually no international car rental services are available, but there are local companies in all the major cities. The legal hire age is 25. The national speed limit is 90kph (55mph). The use of seat belts is not enforced, nor is the use of mobile phones prohibited. Vehicles drive on the right hand side, though this rule is overlooked on some mountain roads when turning – the vehicle going uphill has priority. Breakdown and petrol services on Bolivia’s roads are scarce. Fill your tank whenever possible. An International Driving Permit is required. This can be issued by Federación Inter-Americana de Touring y Automóvil (www.fitac.org) on production of a national licence, but it is wiser to obtain the International Permit before departure.

Taxis can usually be found anywhere and at anytime in Bolivia, and are the safest mode of transport. Many people work as part-time taxi drivers in cities to supplement their income. Fares tend to be fixed, rarely over Bs15. Tipping is not necessary. In the lowlands moto-taxis are commonly used, while micros (small minibuses) are the main form of urban transport in big cities. In some cities, fixed-route minibuses, otherwise known as colectivos or trufis are commonly used: there’s usually somebody shouting out the route through a window. In rural areas, catching a truck is a cheap but rough form of transport

Biking is rare in Bolivia. For proper touring you will need to bring a bike suitable for mountainous terrain. The country is home to some of the world’s best downhill mountain tracks, notably “Death Road” outside La Paz.

Bolivia has two separate and unconnected networks - Eastern and Western. The Eastern network's hub is Santa Cruz, from where Ferroviaria Oriental (www.ferroviariaoriental.com) runs trains to the Brazilian borders. The Western line, running from Oruro via Uyuni and Tupiza to Villazón (where you can connect to trains to Argentina) is run by Ferroviaria Andina (www.fca.com.bo). Trains have three to four classes and restaurant cars. Buy tickets in advance from the offices in Santa Cruz and La Paz respectively. There’s also a slow but scenic route between Sucre and Potosí.

Double-decker passenger boats operate between the various small islands on Lake Titicaca with regular departures from Copacabana to the Isla del Sol. Motorised canoes traverse the many rivers of the Amazon basin with the most regular departures from Rurrenabaque.

Water used for drinking, brushing teeth or making ice should be boiled or otherwise sterilised (iodine tablets or tincture are good options). It is best to avoid drinking tap water entirely while in Bolivia. Bottled water is purified (but check the seal as they are sometimes refilled in stores). All branded milk products are pasteurised; powdered or tinned milk is also available. Only eat well-cooked meat and fish, and vegetables should be cooked and fruit peeled. Be wary of street stalls or anything that has been reheated.

Bolivian cuisine is as distinctive and varied as its landscape. There’s nothing in the form of haute cuisine here, but you will find a large range of both national and international restaurants available at cheap prices, especially in the large cities. Local speciality food and drink is a must – these differ according to region (highlands, lowlands and the Altiplano). La Paz offers the biggest variation. Go straight for the markets or set lunch menus, or alternatively you can also find pizzerias, fast food, Chinese restaurants (known as chifas), popular spit-roast chicken restaurants as well as high-end eateries. Food in the Altiplano is less varied; Aymaran cuisine is centred on carbohydrates – especially potatoes, rice and quinoa – and meat (mutton and llama). Food in the lowlands tends to be more tropical (yucca and plantain are staples) with beef featuring heavily due to the cattle herding in the region. Although Bolivia is landlocked seafood is still available, mostly around Lake Titicaca.

Generally speaking, tipping is not expected in Bolivia, but it is welcomed. It is customary to add 10% as a tip to the 13% service charge added to hotel and restaurant bills.

Bolivia has a temperate climate but temperatures can differ dramatically between day and night. The wettest period is November to March, which, in extreme circumstances, may induce landslides in mountainous areas, and cause certain roads to become impassable. The northeast slopes of the Andes are semi-tropical. During the wet season the salt flats become flooded – it is a beautiful spectacle, as the flats turn into a mirror of the sky above. Winter is perhaps the best time to visit (May-October), especially in the hot and humid lowlands, as it is cooler and drier. In the highlands, it rains much less, remains sunny through the day but gets noticeably colder at night. Visitors sometimes find the highlands (especially La Paz) uncomfortable because of the thin air due to high altitude. The mountain areas can become very cold at night.

In terms of clothing, lightweight, natural fabrics and waterproofs are best. Layering is a good idea if taking the tour of the salt flats – it’s extremely cold at night and early mornings, but when the sun comes out it warms up quickly. Warmer clothing is necessary at night in the Altiplano, especially in La Paz, Oruro and Potosí. If you need warm clothing, the markets of La Paz and Sucre are a good place to find alpaca wool jumpers and scarves.

Internet cafés are available in most towns and cities. They charge around 3 to 5 bolivianos per hour. Don’t expect the same speed as at home: in many places it is still dial-up. Some internet cafés will also offer net phone or Skype services. Hotels, hostels and cafés may also offer free Wi-Fi access.

In Bolivia the power outlets accept either a flat blade ungrounded plug (Type A) or a two-pronged ungrounded plug (Type C).

Electricity in Bolivia is 230 Volts, alternating at 50 cycles per second. If you travel to Bolivia with a device that does not accept 230 Volts at 50 Hertz, you will need a voltage converter.

Chile is a slender ribbon of land flanked by the South Pacific Ocean to the west, and surrounded by Peru, Bolivia and Argentina. The country is a mystifying amalgam of extraordinarily diverse scenery, vibrant cultures, and exciting cities. From the fjords and glaciers of Patagonia and Antarctica to the driest desert in the world at Atacama, volcanoes to tropical islands, Chile boasts nearly every landscape imaginable. One of the country’s defining characteristics is its warm culture, summarised in its motto of ‘buena onda’ (‘good vibes’). Rituals surrounding relaxation and connection - such as the ‘mate’ tea custom - are integral to Chilean culture, as well as a strong connection with food, music and dance. World-class cities like Santiago weave together 21st century global culture and time-honoured traditions, and provide everything from phenomenal restaurants and buzzing nightlife to gorgeous, trendy beaches. Wine lovers will also find worlds of taste to explore in the lush valleys of vineyards offering some of the best wine on earth.

Currency

Chilean Peso (CLP; symbol CH$) = 100 centavos. The local symbol is simply $. Notes are in denominations of CH$20,000, 10,000, 5,000, 2,000 and 1,000. Coins are in denominations of CH$500, 100, 50, 10, 5 and 1, although the latter is no longer in circulation.

The import and export of local and foreign currencies is unlimited, however amounts exceeding the equivalent of US$10,000 must be declared.

Foreign exchange transactions can be conducted through commercial banks, casas de cambio, or authorised shops, restaurants, hotels and clubs. Casas de cambio are open daily 0900-1900 (Mon-Sat) and 0900-1400 (Sun). Ask to be given smaller denomination bills as these will be easier to spend, and you may run into trouble trying to get change from larger notes.

Banking

Banking hours are from Monday to Friday from 09h00-14h00.

Visa and MasterCard credit cards are commonly accepted – although Diners Club and American Express slightly less so - in towns and cities, where ATMs are also largely available. Outside of the larger, more tourist-centred towns, currency exchange can be tricky.

ATMs (also known as redbancs) are also largely available in larger, more tourist-centred towns. Access to ATMs in smaller towns and more rural areas is often more limited so plan accordingly.

It is possible to exchange money and traveller's cheques at any casa de cambio at market-driven exchange rates. However, exchanging traveller's cheques in Chile has been reported to be problematic.

There are frequent services between main cities. The southern part of the country relies heavily on air links and reservations are essential. Flights are operated by LAN Express, a subsidiary of LAN (www.lan.com), and by Sky Airline (www.skyairline.cl), as well as a number of air taxi companies such as Aerovías Dap (www.aeroviasdap.cl) which flies around the Magallanes region and Antarctica.

There are regular flights with LAN from Santiago to Easter Island (journey time - five hours), and Easter Island is currently included as an option in the Visit South America Air Pass. Flights fill up quickly so it is essential to book in advance throughout the year. An air taxi runs a daily service during the summer months to the Juan Fernández Islands from Valparaíso and Santiago, run by Transportes Aereos Isla Robinson Crusoe (www.tairc.cl). Sky Airline flies south to Punta Arenas and north to Antofagasta amongst other routes.

The Visit South America pass has replaced the old Visit Chile pass. It is available with LAN transatlantic flights and covers Chile as well as Argentina, Brazil, Bolivia, Colombia, Ecuador and Peru. Passes must be obtained outside South America and it is advisable to make reservations well in advance. Once purchased, reservations can be changed at no additional cost; but if re-routing, a charge is made for each change.

Chile has a large network of good roads, with the exception of the fjord-filled south of the country which is not always connected to central Chile by road. Crossings have to be made at times through Argentina, and water transport also plays a part there.

Chileans drive on the right side of road. There is around 80,000km (50,000 miles) of highway in the country, only half of which is paved. Foreign drivers should feel comfortable driving in Chile, as in general, traffic rules are obeyed here more than in other Latin American countries – although you will often find horses, bicyclists, and pedestrians on the highways, so be aware! Most highways are well-marked.

There is a toll for using the highway, with rates differing according to distance and section. Outside Santiago, you’ll be expected to pay in Chilean Pesos. In Santiago, the toll is automatically charged via the TAG-system - a little sensor that is fixed at the windshield of each car, mandatory for driving on Santiago’s city highways.

Standards of hygiene are generally reasonable in Chile, and should not cause visitors any undue concern. Tap water in the cities is fine to drink but it does have a high mineral content and may taste different to what you’re used to. Bottled water is easily available should you prefer to stick to that. When it comes to eating out, use common sense – only eat food that has been freshly cooked and looks to have been prepared in hygienic conditions.

Santiago has a wide range of options for eating out, from excellent vegetarian restaurants to hearty, good-value grills. However, you can also find sushi, Indian, Middle Eastern, seafood and Peruvian restaurants. Borago, Astrid y Gaston, Puerto Fuy, Sukalde, El Jardin de Epicuro and and Osaka are consistently named as some of the city’s finest restaurants. Plenty of economical set lunch deals are to be had downtown, and cheap eats can also be found near the university.

Once outside of Santiago, options tend to be limited for vegetarians. Seafood, red meat (including lamb), and chicken dominate the menu in the provinces. For carnivores, any chance possible to experience a leisurely countryside asado (barbeque) or curanto (shellfish stew) is an opportunity to participate in a cherished Chilean tradition. If you have the good fortune to be invited to a local’s home to eat, you should show up with something to share - a bottle of decent wine or a dessert would be appropriate and appreciated.

It is customary to add 10% to the bill when eating out. Some restaurants and bars automatically add this.

Due to its long coastline, clearly Chile’s weather is extremely diverse and unpredictable although it is seasonal in much of the country. Summer runs from December to February, and winter from June to August.

It is difficult to pinpoint temperatures ranges for the country as a whole as they’re so variable. There’s the dry, arid Atacama desert in the north where temperatures reach a maximum of 32°C (90°F) and can drop to -2°C (28°F). Chile’s central region has a Mediterranean feel with a colder, wetter season (May to August), while it is usually cool and damp in the south. Easter Island has its own humid sub-tropical temperatures, while much of the south, from Region VII down has a very high annual rainfall.

Arica, Iquique, Antofagasta, La Serena and Coquimbo are the principal summer beach hubs in the north for local tourists, while Pucón in the south sees high tourism numbers from January to March. Due to its proximity to Santiago, Viña del Mar and Valparaíso beach areas see plenty of sunshine and beach bums during the summer, often filling up with neighbouring Argentinians. As Chile is in the southern hemisphere, the ski season takes place between June and August.

In terms of visiting Patagonia and south, the summer months from December to March are ideal as it is warmer for trekking and other outdoor activities. November and April are quieter times in terms of tourism but the weather is less dependable. It isn’t advisable to visit the south from the end of autumn to the end of winter - May to September - as many trails close due to bad weather and strong winds and waterways ice over. However, places in the north, such as the Atacama, can be visited all year round.

When visiting the warmer areas of the country during the warmer months, bring lightweight, natural fabrics. During the wet season, you’ll need to bring waterproofs – aim for breathable materials so you don’t overheat. More substantial waterproofs and warm weather clothing are often needed in the south and at altitude.

Internet cafes are open all hours in the main towns and tourist areas. Many hotels and hostels will have access to the internet which is relatively cheap at around US$1 for 30 minutes, while free Wi-Fi is also becoming increasingly popular, with many hotels offering this.

For the most part, electrical sockets (outlets) Chile are the "Type C" European CEE 7/16 Europlug. Also reported to be in use is the "Type L" Italian CEI 23-16/VII. If your appliance's plug doesn't match the shape of these sockets, you will need a travel plug adapter in order to plug in. Travel plug adapters simply change the shape of your appliance's plug to match whatever type of socket you need to plug into. If it's crucial to be able to be able to plug in no matter what, bring an adapter for both types.

Electrical sockets (outlets) in Chile usually supply electricity at between 220 and 240 volts AC. If you're plugging in an appliance that was built for 220-240 volt electrical input, or an appliance that is compatible with multiple voltages, then an adapter is all you need.