Grand tour of Indochina: Vietnam, Laos & Cambodia

From the remarkable beauty of Sam Mountain and Halong Bay to the numerous sacred temples and pagodas, Vietnam has a lot to offer. It is a country that features everything from exotic culinary delights to breathtaking scenery. Seemingly endless, tranquil rice paddies stand in stark contrast to bustling cities such as Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi which embrace all the technology and conveniences that the modern world has to offer. The well-preserved colonial buildings of Hoi An play host to a slew of charming boutiques and tempting cafes while, further north, the local hill-tribe people of Sapa sell a wide variety of exquisite crafts and handmade trinkets. Beyond the urban areas, this diverse country is characterised by vast, verdant jungles and lush mountainous regions as well as an enticing coastline peppered with golden sand, palm-lined beaches.

Currency

Dông (VND; symbol ₫). Notes are in denominations of ₫500,000, 200,000, 100,000, 50,000, 20,000, 10,000, 5,000, 2,000, 1,000 and 500. Coins are in denominations of ₫5,000, 2,000, 1,000 and 500.

Import and export of local currency is limited to ₫15,000,000. Import and export of foreign currency over US$7,000 should be declared at customs.

The US Dollar is the most favoured foreign currency. Australian, British, Japanese, Singaporean and Thai currency, as well as the Euro, can usually be changed in the larger cities; great difficulty may be encountered in trying to exchange any other currencies. There is a commission charge for changing money in banks.

Banking

Banking hours vary from bank to bank but are generally open from Monday-Friday 08h30-16h00; some may close for lunch. Many banks are also open on Saturday morning; all banks are closed on Sunday.

An increasing number of outlets accept MasterCard and Visa credit cards. However, outside main towns and cities, it is wise to carry cash. There are ATMs in many major towns, but not in rural areas. ATMs issue Dông, and the single withdrawal limit varies, depending on the bank, ranging from ₫2,000,000 to much larger amounts.

Travellers' cheques are accepted in banks, money changers and some hotels although most travellers now use debit cards because of the increased number of ATMs. It is best to take US Dollar travellers' cheques to avoid additional exchange rate charges and expect to pay a high commission.

Vietnam Airlines (VN) (www.vietnamairlines.com) operates daily flights between Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Hué, Danang and Nha Trang. Jetstar Pacific (www.jetstar.com) also operate flights on these routes. Regular services are also provided by Vietnam Airlines between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City to Buon Ma Thuot, Dalat, Phu Quoc, Pleiku and Qui Nhon.

The road situation has improved dramatically so flights are used for long distances and to save time. It is still easier to fly to places like Dien Bien Phu. Flights are particularly busy around the Tet holiday in January/February and it is essential to book ahead.

The road network throughout Vietnam is reasonable but the standard of the roads varies dramatically from good to appalling. Road conditions can deteriorate during the rainy season. It is possible to hire chauffeur-driven cars from travel companies. Self-drive car hire is non-existent. Seat belts are not compulsory in Vietnam. Cars drive on the right.

Taxis are plentiful and cheap. They can be flagged down on the street or arranged through your hotel or the restaurant where you are eating. Always make sure the driver has set the meter before starting the journey.

Bicycles can be hired for a day or longer from shops in the main towns and cities. Many Vietnamese people still have a bicycle as their main form of transport but now there are many more motorbikes as well as cars and lorries. Particular care must be taken when cycling in towns and on main roads outside the towns as drivers do not always observe road rules and are not cyclist-aware.

Long-distance coaches operate throughout the country, between Hanoi, Hué, Danang and Ho Chi Minh City. Tickets must be bought in person at the bus station.

There are local bus services in Ho Chi Minh City and in Hanoi. It is also possible to travel by taxi, motorbike or cyclo (cycle rickshaw; motorised version also exists). Most foreigners forego the bus, preferring to use these. Taxi drivers do not expect to be tipped, but it is welcomed. Hopping on the back of a 'moto' is the cheapest way to travel, if you have the stomach for the crazy driving. Agree the price first and make sure they have a good helmet.

Visitors may use the rail transport system independently or as part of a rail tour. Express long-distance trains are faster than local services, more reliable and more comfortable. Although a few carriages now have air conditioning, facilities are still short of international standards. The main rail route connects Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City and the journey can take between 30 and 40 hours. There are also services from Hanoi to Haiphong, Dong Dang and Lao Cai. Contact Vietnam Railways (tel: (04) 3942 3949;www.vr.com.vn) for more information. Tickets should be bought at railway stations.

There are private tourist carriages attached to long-distance trains on the Hanoi to Danang (tel: (04) 3942 9919; www.livitrans.com) and Hanoi to Sapa routes (tel: (20) 387 1522; www.victoriahotels-asia.com; also served by Livitrans) where the standard is higher and there is a dining car.

Cat Ba Island, in the north, is a popular place for visitors and can be reached by hydrofoil from Haiphong. A hydrofoil also serves the beach resort, Vung Tau, with a daily service from Ho Chi Minh City. The tropical getaway island of Phu Quoc in the Gulf of Thailand can be reached by hydrofoil from Rach Gia in the Mekong Delta.

Water used for drinking, brushing teeth or making ice should have first been boiled or otherwise sterilised. However, bottled water is widely available and cheap; make sure the seal is unbroken before drinking. Unpasteurised milk should be boiled. However, pasteurised milk is widely available now. Avoid dairy products that are likely to have been made from unboiled milk. Only eat well-cooked meat and fish, preferably served hot. Vegetables should be cooked and fruit should be peeled.

Vietnamese cooking is varied and usually superb, as the profusion of Vietnamese restaurants in New York, London and Berlin contest. It is a mixture of Vietnamese, Chinese and French traditions, with a plethora of regional variations. As in all countries of the region, rice or noodles usually provide the basis of a meal. Not surprisingly, fish is plentiful. Pride is taken in the fact that the freshest of vegetables are used and the vegetables and fruit served is seasonal.

Tipping is now quite customary, especially in tourist areas, and is much appreciated in a country where salaries are still low. Upscale restaurants and hotels may add a 5-10% service charge to the bill.

Because of its geography, the climate in Vietnam varies greatly from north to south with three distinct climatic zones. Tropical monsoons occur from October to April in the centre and from May to September in the north and south. It is almost totally dry throughout the rest of the year. It can get exceptionally hot, however, all year round, but the north has a cooler time between October and April. Temperatures around the country can reach up to 40C in the height of the hot and rainy season (May to September), but the northern highlands and Hanoi can often seem chilly and damp in the winter.

There is no one ideal time to visit Vietnam as a whole but at any time of year there will be sun somewhere. The high season is from September to March but bad weather can disrupt travel in the centre of the country during this period, particularly from September to December. For the beaches in the centre of Vietnam, Danang, Hoi An and Nha Trang, it is best to go between May and August. The autumn is the best time to visit Halong Bay when there should be clear skies.

The standard household (hotel) electrical supply in Vietnam is 220 volt, 50 Hertz, but you may find that 110 volt, 50 Hertz outlets are still in use in some places. In Vietnam, the standard socket accepts a two round pins plug without a ground pin (Type A), but non-standard two flat blade (Type B) or two rectangular blade sockets and plugs are still in use.

Some modern hotels and office blocks have three pin round (Type D) or UK three pin square sockets (Type C).

Before traveling to Vietnam, it is wise to survey your various items that you will need and that require electricity to operate. Verify you have the proper adapters, converters, or transformers to get electricity in Vietnam.

Wedged between a number of larger neighbouring countries, Laos is often overlooked in favour of tourism giants such as Thailand and Vietnam. But these travellers are missing out on an extraordinarily scenic and culturally rich destination. Laos boasts a reputation as the least visited, least Westernised, and most untouched of all Indochinese nations. Only time will tell how long this will last, but while it does, visitors who choose to explore this nation’s remote areas will be richly rewarded. Laos’ primary drawcard is undoubtedly the mighty Mekong River which traverses the length of the country and is considered the second most biodiverse river in the world. In the north, the landscape is characterised by little-explored jungle-clad mountainous areas where visitors can witness the intriguing cultures of the various hill tribes that populate this region. Travellers on the hunt for cultural interest should head for the bustling capital of Vientiane, with its innumerable temples and Buddhist monuments. It is this variety of exotic wildlife, remote wilderness and remarkable cultural treasures that make Laos a truly unique and unforgettable holiday destination.

Currency

Lao Kip (LAK; symbol ₭­) = 100 cents. Notes are in denominations of ₭50,000, 20,000, 10,000, 5,000, 2,000, 1,000, 500, 100, 50, 10, 5 and 1. Most transactions are conducted in cash; American Dollars, Thai Baht or Lao Kip (LAK).

Banking

Banking hours: Monday-Friday 08h30-16h00. Some banks remain open during lunch.

Major credit cards are accepted in the more upmarket hotels and restaurants only in Vientiane and Luang Prabang. Several banks will also offer a cash advance on credit cards for a commission. Most ATMs are reliable. However there is a limit on how much you can withdraw during a day, and currently, the withdrawal limit per day is set at approximately 1,000,000 LAK, roughly £65. Vientiane has the biggest selection of ATMs in the country, especially around Th Setthathriat. Major hotels are likely to have an ATM on-site.

Travellers' cheques often carry a hefty commission charge – available at most banks in Vientiane. To avoid additional exchange rate charges, travellers are advised to take traveller’s cheques in US Dollars or Thai Baht.

The national airline of Laos is Lao Airlines. There are no direct flights from the USA or Europe; flights are mainly via Bangkok, China, Vietnam or Cambodia. Popular airlines flying into Laos include Bangkok Airways, Thai Airways, and Vietnam Airlines. The road quality is good, they have been paved in recent years, including the main highway from the Thai border at Savannakhet to the Vietnamese border. However, few main roads are suitable for all-weather or night driving.

Unless you are an experienced driver, it’s not recommended to hire cars in Laos as driving standards are not up to international levels and there are few rules. However, if you are capable, it is an excellent way to get off the beaten track and to explore. A safer option is to hire cars with a driver through hotels or tourist agencies.

The word ‘tuk-tuk’ is used to describe a large variety of lightweight vehicles, generally with three wheels. While there is a tuk-tuk organization in Vientiane that is supposed to control the prices that tourists pay between destinations, the rates remain negotiable. Decide on the fare before getting in. A (meaning ‘two rows’ in Thai) is a pick-up truck, with two benches, a roof and open sides; these operate both as local buses and taxis.

Laos has plenty of quiet roads that lend themselves to cycling. It is a growing industry and there are several local operators offering guided cycling throughout the country. There are good maps available and cycling is one of the best ways to come into contact with local people.

Privately run, air-conditioned VIP coaches make the journey between tourist centres whereas slower, more basic, local buses cover a far wider range of destinations. Note the toilet stops are often far and few between, and breakdowns/tyre changes are the norm rather than an exception.

Other than the international train between Thailand and Laos there are no other railway lines in the country.

Laotian cuisine shows the clear influence of Thai, Vietnamese and Chinese cooking, with its widespread use of chilli, fish sauce, soy and Asian herbs like lemongrass, ginger, galangal and Asian basil. There’s also a subtle French influence dating back to the colonial administration, most obvious in the baguette sandwiches sold on the streets of Vientiane.

All water should be regarded as being potentially contaminated. Water used for drinking, brushing teeth or making ice should have first been boiled or otherwise sterilised. Milk is unpasteurised and should be boiled. Powdered or tinned milk is available and is advised. Avoid dairy products that are likely to have been made from unboiled milk. Only eat well-cooked meat and fish. Vegetables should be cooked and fruit peeled.

Tipping is not typical in Laos, but in tourist areas, many people do tip and around 10% is appropriate.

Throughout the country, the climate is hot and tropical, with the rainy season between May and October when temperatures are at their highest, up to 35°C. The weather is very similar to that of northern Vietnam. The dry season runs from November to April, which is the best time to visit as the temperature is at its most comfortable. However, the mountainous areas can be very cold at this time, down to around 5°C. As a guide, the average rainfall in the capital Vientiane is about 1,700 mm, although in the north of Laos and the highlands it is far wetter, with more than 3,000 mm each year.

Lightweights and rainwear, with warmer layers from October to March and for upland areas. If you come during the monsoon summer months, bring lightweight waterproofs, an umbrella and some leech oil for trekking. Bring a swimming costume for hotel swimming pools too.

Internet cafes are located in the major towns and are becoming increasingly common in places frequented by backpackers. A high-speed connection is only available in places such as Vientiane and Luang Prabang. In Vientiane the best streets to head to for fast internet connection and internet cafes with Skype and air-conditioning are Th Samsenthai and Th Setthathriat. Expect to pay around 7000K an hour for broadband. Wi-Fi is increasingly available in many Western orientated bars and cafes.

In Laos the power sockets are of type A, B, C, E and F. The standard voltage is 230 V and the standard frequency is 50 Hz. If your appliance's plug doesn't match the shape of these sockets, you will need a travel plug adapter in order to plug in.

In Laos, the standard voltage is 230 V and the frequency is 50 Hz. You can use your electric appliances in Laos if the standard voltage in your country is in between 220 - 240 V (as is in the UK, Europe, Australia and most of Asia and Africa). Manufacturers take these small deviations into account. If the standard voltage in your country is in the range of 100 V - 127 V (as is in the US, Canada and most South American countries), you need a voltage converter in Laos  If your appliance isn’t compatible with 220-240 volts, a voltage converter will be necessary.

Since Cambodia reopened its borders to tourists in the early 1990s, visitors from around the world have flocked to this intriguing Southeast Asian country to experience its fascinating cultural heritage, to engage with the wonderfully welcoming locals, and to marvel at the numerous spectacular natural wonders Cambodia has to offer. Phnom Penh, the nation’s bustling capital, is home to a slew of excellent restaurants, lively outdoor markets and a boisterous nightlife. However, most of Cambodia’s most popular attractions are located beyond the capital. Tourist favourites include: the sleepy French-influenced town of Kampot with its lovely promenade dotted with gorgeous French villas and charming riverside cafes; the breathtaking waterfalls of the lush jungle-clad Cardamon Mountains; and, of course, the awe-inspiring ancient temple complex of Angkor Wat - the world’s largest and arguably most impressive religious structure. Cambodia serves travellers of all sensitivities, whether they're seeking adventurous jungle excursions, exquisite golden-sand beaches, luxury resorts or sumptuous exotic cuisine, Cambodia truly does have it all.

Currency

Riel (KHR; symbol CR) is the country’s official currency but locals prefer to use dollars. Riel notes are in denominations of CR100,000, 50,000, 20,000, 10,000, 5,000, 2,000, 1,000, 500, 200, 100 and 50. Dollars notes (not coins) are widely accepted, yet visitors in small villages and shops vendors may not have change for high notes (including $10+). It is advisable to keep hold of small Riel change wherever you can as it is very useful.

The import and export of local currency is prohibited. Foreign currency may be exported up to the limit declared at customs on arrival.

US Dollars are widely exchangeable and can often be used as payment in their own right. Thai Baht can be easily exchanged close to the Thai border, but other currencies are generally only recognised at banks and airports.

Banking

Banking hours: Mon-Fri 08h00-15h00. Some banks are open on Saturdays 08h00-11h30.

Credit cards are now more widely accepted in upmarket hotels, shops and restaurants catering to visitors. There are plenty of ATMs in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap and Sihanoukville that accept international cards including Cirrus, Plus, Maestro, Visa and MasterCard. It is always best to carry cash (US Dollars if necessary) in small denominations.

Traveller's cheques are generally not recommended as they are not widely accepted. Traveller's cheques in US Dollars can be changed at banks and some hotels, but can be difficult to change outside major cities

Getting around Cambodia is all part of the adventure. Massive improvements to the national highway network in the past few years have made getting around the country much easier than it once was, with many formerly dirt roads now surfaced and new highways built. Even so, getting from A to B remains time-consuming: roads are still narrow and bumpy, while regular wet-season inundations play havoc with transport.

Cambodia Angkor Air  is the nearest thing Cambodia currently has to a national airline and operates the country’s only domestic flights, with services between Phnom Penh, Siem Reap and Sihanoukville (around $70 return), from Siem Reap to Ho Chi Minh City, and also from Phnom Penh to Hanoi, Saigon and Bangkok. Note that from Phnom Penh and Siem Reap there’s a $6 departure tax for domestic flights.

Buses (laan tom) are the cheapest – and also usually the most convenient and comfortable – way to get around Cambodia, connecting all major cities and towns (although some smaller places aren’t yet on the bus network, and others – Banlung, Sen Monorom and Pailin, for example – have only one or two services a day). Many services start in Phnom Penh, meaning that you’ll most likely have to go through the capital if travelling from one side of the country to the other.

All buses are privately run, operated by a growing number of companies. Phnom Penh Sorya is the biggest; others include Rith Mony, GST, Paramount Angkor and Capitol Tours, while other companies such as Giant Ibis and Mekong Express operate luxury express buses on the most popular routes.

Buses generally arrive and depart from their respective company offices. Unfortunately, this means there are no bus stations or suchlike in which to get centralized information about timetables and fares. Some guesthouses or tour operators can provide this information; otherwise you’ll have to visit all the individual offices. To guarantee a seat, buy your ticket the day before; no standing passengers are allowed, so if all the seats have been sold you’ll have to wait for the next bus with space.

Minibuses, which leave from local transport stops, provide the main alternative to buses, at a similar price. These generally serve the same routes as buses, and also go to smaller destinations not served by bus. They also tend to be slightly faster. On the downside, most usually get absolutely packed and can be horribly uncomfortable, especially for taller travellers (there’s little legroom at the best of times, unlike on the buses, which are relatively luxurious in comparison).

Shared taxis are the third main option when it comes to travelling by road. These are generally slightly more expensive but also somewhat faster than buses and minibuses, although the driving can often be hair-raising, especially if you’re sat in the front. They also serve local destinations off the bus and minibus network. On the downside, like minibuses they get absurdly packed: three people on the front passenger seat is the norm (with the driver sharing his seat as well), and four in the back. You can pay double the standard fare to have the whole front seat to yourself, and you can hire the entire taxi for around five or six times the individual fare. Shared taxis usually leave from the local transport stop. There are no fixed schedules, although most run in the morning, leaving when (very) full.

For years, Cambodia’s appalling roads meant travelling by boat was the principal means of getting between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, but these days it’s easier and quicker to travel by road. Even so, boats (seating about thirty people) still run daily between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, as well as Siem Reap and Battambang. The trip to or from Phnom Penh isn’t particularly scenic, as the Tonle Sap lake is so vast it’s more like being at sea. The trip to or from Battambang is more interesting, combining a trip across the Tonle Sap with a journey down the Sangker River. Neither journey is particularly comfortable: space and movement are restricted, and a cushion, plenty of water, food and a hat will make things more bearable. Be aware that in rough weather the Tonle Sap can whip up some fierce waves.

Cambodia’s colonial-era railway network formerly consisted of two lines, one connecting Phnom Penh with Battambang and Poipet, and the other linking the capital with Kampot and Sihanoukville.

It’s virtually impossible to rent a self-drive car in Cambodia, and even if you do, driving yourself entails numerous headaches. Problems include finding appropriate documentation (your driving licence from home may or may not be considered sufficient – some companies will ask for a Cambodian driving licence, for which you’ll need to take a driving test) haphazard driving by other road users; and insufficient insurance – any loss or damage to the vehicle is your responsibility.

Both cycling and renting a motorbike are popular ways to explore Cambodia, though even with the improved road conditions, poor driving by other motorists makes it safer to travel only in daylight hours. Whether you ride a motorbike or bicycle, it’s worth wearing sunglasses, long trousers and a long-sleeved shirt to protect you not only from the sun but also from the grit and gravel thrown up on the dusty roads.

When heading off into the countryside, remember that Cambodia (in spite of clearance programmes) has a huge problem with land mines, and no matter how tempting it may be to go cross-country, stick to well-used tracks and paths.

Tuk-tuks are pricier than motos, tuk-tuks were introduced to Cambodia in 2001, when police in Siem Reap banned foreigners riding three-up on a moto. They have since caught on in a big way and are now found in most provincial towns. Pulled by a motorbike, these covered passenger cabs seat up to four people and, with their drop-down side-curtains, have the advantage of affording some protection against the sun and rain. The motorbikes that pull them, however, are the same ones used as motos, and so are woefully underpowered, which makes for a slow trip, especially if you’ve got three or four people on board – even with just one or two passengers they can struggle to go much faster than your average bicycle.

All water should be regarded as being potentially contaminated. Boil or sterilise water for drinking, brushing teeth or making ice. Bottled water is widely available. Milk is also unpasteurised and should be boiled. Powdered or tinned milk is available and is an advisable alternative to fresh produce. Avoid dairy products which are likely to have been made from unboiled milk. Only eat well-cooked meat and fish. Vegetables should be cooked and fruit peeled. Hygiene is something travellers should be aware of when travelling to Cambodia. Roadside street food stalls and restaurants are fun to try but may not have the strictest cleanliness habits. Stick to freshly cooked piping hot foods to avoid sickness.

As is the case elsewhere in South East Asia, the quality of the food is a draw in its own right. Khmer cuisine shares much with that of both Thailand and China, although it tends to steer clear of excessive use of spices. Quality restaurants are found in all areas that see mainstream tourism, while cheap but tasty food stalls are ubiquitous around the country. Most meals are rice-based.

Tips are appreciated in hotels and restaurants where no service charge has been added, and by tour guides.

Cambodia is blessed with one of Asia's simpler weather systems and despite having two distinct weather seasons you can travel in Cambodia all-year-round.  In general, the entire country is subject to the same weather patterns, mainly due to the relatively uniform altitude and latitude throughout Cambodia.

There are two distinct seasons – dry (October to late April) and wet (May to late September). Within each season there are variations in temperature, with the final few dry months leading up to the wet season (March and April) and the early months of the wet season (May and June) usually being the hottest of the year with temperatures in excess of 35°C at times.

Humidity is at its height during March and April whilst the coolest months of the year tend to between October and December, however this is cool for Cambodia but far from chilly (avg temperatures 24°C - 26°C).

Cambodia is a hot and tropical country, so natural fabrics e.g. linen, cotton and silk will keep you cooler than synthetic fabrics. Lightweight, loose-fitting cotton clothing, long-sleeved pants and long-sleeved shirts will protect against mosquitoes and the sun. Merino wool is a good choice to wear against your skin as it naturally helps to regulate your body temperature. It keeps you warm in the cold, wicks away moisture when it's hot, and doesn't retain odours - even after prolonged wear. 

If you plan on hiking, a pair of good lightweight walking boots with ankle support are a must. Good sunglasses are a necessity, as it a sunhat and plenty of sunscreen. Travel light - it is cheap and easy to get your laundry done. 

In Cambodia the standard voltage is 230 V. The standard frequency is 50 Hz. The power sockets that are used are of type A / C / G. If you travel to Cambodia with a device that does not accept 230 Volts at 50 Hertz, you will need a voltage converter. If your device is compatible for 230 volts, you will only need a plug adapter.