Kenya

This Update: July 2021

AN OVERVIEW

First and foremost, please remember, you are required by law to carry your passport with you at all times in Kenya. If you are stopped by the police, you will be expected to present it.

Kenya is the world's 48th largest country, and the world’s 29th most populous country, as well as the largest economy in eastern and central Africa. It has the third-largest economy in sub-Saharan Africa after Nigeria and South Africa, after agriculture, tourism as its second largest revenue producing industry. According to archaeological evidence humans have been living here from 1.9 million to 350,000 years ago. East Africa, including Kenya, is one of the earliest regions where modern humans are believed to have lived.

There is evidence that about 320,000 years ago, at the Kenyan site of Olorgesailie, there were long-distance trade networks, the use of pigments, and the possible making of projectile points. European contact began in 1500 with the Portuguese Empire. The British Empire made Kenya a protectorate in 1895 and the subsequent Kenya Colony began in 1920. After independence in 1963, Kenya remained a member of the Commonwealth of Nations. The Republic of Kenya is named after Mount Kenya. 

Kenya is most famous among travellers for the vast lands set aside for the 60 national parks and game reserves. wildlife, such as the Masai Mara and the expansive East and Tsavo West National Park, in the southeast. The huge migrations that take place across there every year between June and September also tract many tourists. More than 2 million wildebeest and 200,000 zebras migrate in a constant clockwise fashion a distance of 2,900 kilometres from the Serengeti in neighbouring Tanzania to the Masai Mara, searching for food and water supplies.

This migration is listed among the Seven Natural Wonders of Africa.

The ‘Big Five’ - buffalo, elephant, leopard, lion, and rhinoceros, as well as reptiles, and birds can be found in the national parks and game reserves across the country.

There is much to see in Kenya, historical mosques, colonial-era forts at Mombasa, Malindi, and Lamu, renowned scenery such as the white-capped Mount Kenya and the Great Rift Valley, tea plantations at Kericho, coffee plantations at Thika, a splendid view of Mount Kilimanjaro across the border into Tanzania. There is also the beaches along the Swahili Coast lying along the Indian Ocean.

There are a total of 69 languages spoken in Kenya, but British English is the main language of the country, as well as a distinct local dialect, Kenyan English, is used. Kenyan English also contains certain elements of American English. 

The culture of Kenya consists of multiple traditions. Kenya has no single prominent culture that identifies it. It instead consists of the various cultures of the country's different communities. Having said that, the effect of British colonialism is still a large part of Kenya. For example, in the sports they play and their meals and tea times. Kenyans generally have three meals in a day - breakfast lunch and supper. In between, they have the 10 o'clock tea and 4 p.m. tea. Cricket, football, rugby, field hockey, and boxing are the sports of choice with Kenya being a dominant force in middle-distance and long-distance athletics. They have consistently produced Olympic and Commonwealth Games champions in various distance events, especially in 800m, 1,500m, 3,000m steeplechase, 5,000m, 10,000m, and the marathon. In the motor rallying arena, Kenya is home to the world-famous Safari Rally, commonly acknowledged as one of the toughest rallies in the world.

Whatever your reason for visiting Kenya, whether it’s the wildlife, the beautiful coast, it’s rich history or sport, it’s bound to be a visit to remember.


Banking and Currency

Currency
The Kenyan shilling is the national currency of the African nations of Kenya, Sudan, and Somalia. It remains one of the most stable currencies in east Africa. The shilling is further divided into 100 cents. Prices often include the abbreviation KSh, as in “100 KSh” to refer to 100 shillings. Denominations: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 500, and 1000 shillings. Coins: The coins are 50 cents and 1 shilling in stainless steel and bi-metallic coins of 5, 10 and 20. Each shilling is made up of 100 cents. Don’t be confused if you hear people using the word bob! This remnant of former British colonial times is slang for a shilling.

The Banks of Kenya
Currently there are 28 domestic and 14 foreign commercial banks with branches, agencies, and other outlets throughout the country. The two largest commercial banks are international banks such as Barclays Bank of Kenya and Standard Chartered. Other large commercial banks include Equity Bank, Kenya Commercial Bank, Diamond Trust Bank, Cooperative Bank, and Central Bank of Africa. Money can easily be exchanged at all banks, but we suggest only transacting with the international banks.

Credit and Debit Cards
Be sure to inform your bank of your travel plans so that your card is not blocked due to suspected fraud. Importantly, Visa is preferred to Mastercard. Most places won’t accept other cards such as Diners’ Club and American Express. Credit and debit cards are accepted at most supermarkets, high-end restaurants and businesses, and gas stations. But that’s all. Outside Nairobi and Mombasa very few places will accept payment by credit card. So, if you’re not using cards what can you use? In Kenya, the most commonly used mobile money platform is M-Pesa. And it’s worth having an M-Pesa account as you can use M-Pesa for everything in Kenya - paying bills, buying goods, sending money, withdrawing cash, etc. nearly everywhere in Kenya including the most rural areas. All you need is a Safaricom sim card and your passport. Registration is free at any Safaricom outlet. Once your sim card has been registered, you can easily activate your M-Pesa account. Ensure everything is operating correctly before you leave the shop.

Travelers Checks are extremely difficult to use or exchange. The few banks that will accept them will give a much lower exchange rate. Instead, use cash, your Visa or MasterCard, or pay with an M-Pesa account.  

ATM Withdrawals and Cash
The number of ATMs available has dropped since the Covid-19 pandemic began in 2020 as Kenyans prefer cashless interactions such as agency, internet banking, and mobile banking. You won’t find any ATMs outside of Nairobi and Mombasa. Only KSh can be withdrawn from ATMs. The maximum you can withdraw at any one time is normally 40,000 KSh. However, this varies from bank to bank with some only allowing 20,000 KSh.

Once source recommends always having small bills like Ksh 50, 100, 200, and 500 for minor expenses. Always have a little cash at hand and get an M-Pesa account. Don't carry much cash around since pickpocketing is common in Kenya.

US Dollars are only accepted if they are not torn and are not more than 10 years old. Smaller US denominations are difficult to use or exchange. Bringing cash will save you foreign withdrawal fees at ATMs and will also help in an emergency if you get stuck. It’s best to bring 50- or 100-dollar bills issued after 2005.

Please read the information under Credit and Debit cards for more information on M-Pesa accounts as this may make your tour that much easier.

Banking Hours
Banks are open from 9am - 3pm. While business hours in Kenya are generally from 8am - 1pm, and from 2pm to 5pm, most shops open from 9am - 6 pm, some supermarkets are open 24-7. In shopping centres, some shops remain open until 8 pm.


Travel, Transport and Getting Around

If modern-day transportation holds little allure for you, consider forsaking it and rather stepping back in time to discover Kenya from the back of a camel or a horse, especially in Samburu. But if you prefer transport with wheels then you’ll be pleased to know that travelling around Kenya is relatively easy by air, road and rail. ‘Relative’ being the operative word. ‘Adventurous’ may be a better one.

By Air
There are 15 airports which have paved runways. Most visitors flying into Kenya land at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (JKIA) in Nairobi. From there, or from Wilson Airport, travellers can take a scheduled flight to Mombasa, Malindi, Lamu, Kisumu, Amboseli, Masai Mara, Meru, Nanyuki and Samburu. Charter flights are also available and fly directly to Mombasa or Malindi. Internal flights on tiny bush-hoppers are by far the most convenient mode of travel, but they can be expensive. This is true of most African countries. In Kenya, the bush-hopper flights are planned to coincide with each other, and if you stick to the most common itineraries, this will be a bonus. If you are planning a cross-country Kenyan adventure, Fly540 and JamboJet are two budget airlines to consider. While they don’t fly to the bush airstrips, they do connect to most major airports. You will be able to arrange transfers from there.

Kenya is very security conscious, especially at major airports. Every car and person are checked on entry; bags will be screened, and people must pass through a body scanner. Allow plenty of time for this in addition to the usual check-in procedures - and be patient, these security checks can be long and tedious.

By Road
The country has an extensive network of paved and unpaved roads. Several international car rental companies have offices in Nairobi and Mombasa and offers expensive but reliable cars with a full back-up network. You have to be 18 years old to drive in Kenya and 23 years old to hire a car.

One source says you can drive in Kenya on the licence of most European countries for up to 3 months. Another says you must have the following documentation with you: your own country’s driver’s licence, an international driver’s licence, registration and insurance documentation. Your passport is only accepted in this regard as a method of identification not as a driver’s licence.

While traffic is horrendous in Nairobi - so leave PLENTY of time to get to the airport, or anywhere for that matter - having your own vehicle, and preferably your own driver as well is a great way to see the country. The road quality is good in and around the towns and cities although regularly jammed with traffic. Out of town, the road conditions gradually worsen. Roads can be bumpy, a pothole paradise, and as they are most likely to be dirt, will be dusty. But, if you keep your sense of humour, and drive a 4x4, they can also be great fun. While main roads are in fairly good condition, with minor roads this is not the case. And in the rainy season some roads will be impassable. Seatbelts are required and mobiles can only be used by the driver if they are hands-free.

If you are driving yourself around Kenya, the most important thing to remember is - TRAFFIC DRIVES ON THE LEFT side of the road. Stick to main roads. For example, use the Mombasa road between Jomo Kenyatta Airport (JKIA) and Nairobi city. Incidents of carjacking on the old airport road (Airport South Road) and Jogoo Road have been reported. Currently there are several areas near the coast where it's inadvisable to drive, especially near the border with Somalia.

One source recommends that if the police try to issue an on-the-spot cash fine, this is not official policy. The officer should issue you with a ‘receipt for cash bond’, a notice to advise when and where you need to attend court to answer the charge against you. However, if the fine is for a small amount, you may decide that paying is less hassle overall. Another source advises that to curb the huge number of accidents on Kenya's roads, the authorities have set up makeshift courts with judges on the side of the road by checkpoints. If the police stop you and you are charged, you will be marched to the 'court' and tried and fined there and then. There is a saying which goes, ‘Once you cross the Limpopo, you are in AFRICA. And the further north you go, the more Africa it becomes’. And while you don’t leave civilization as you know it behind completely, you should assume that you are and take the necessary precautions.

Prepare well for your road trip, especially if you are going on safari. Apart from road maps, two spare wheels and a couple of spare tubes are a must due to the condition of the roads. A tow rope, compressor, winch, spotlight, and spare jerry cans of fuel and water are useful items to have. Spare fuel is essential as while both petrol and diesel are easily obtainable in major towns, remote areas can experience shortages.

The further away you go from towns, the more expensive fuel is likely to become. Stick to the speed limits when driving in Kenya; 50 km/h on a public road within an urban area, 110 km/h on both rural roads and motorways. The best policy when travelling on a highway or a rural road and you are passing through a village is to slow down to 50 kms per hour or less before you hit the city limits or the outskirts of the village. The drink/drive limit is 80mg.

By Public Transport
Minivans, known locally as matatus are the local transport, cheaper than taxis, and can be an adventure. With loud African music and some reckless driving, they are a short distance experience! Otherwise, tuk-tuks and boda bodas (motorbike taxis) are another form of transport in smaller towns. If you’re travelling longer distances such as Nairobi to Mombasa, larger buses are available. We strongly suggest that you travel only during the day.

By Rail
Kenya's railway system links the nation's ports and major cities, connecting it with neighbouring Uganda. One of the most romantic train journeys in Africa, the old overnight train used to run in Kenya from Nairobi to Mombasa. It was also called the Lunatic Express. Depending on your point of view this has unfortunately, or fortunately, has been replaced by a Chinese operated high-speed train which is very popular with the locals. Tickets need to be booked in advance and being able to do so via M-Pesa will save you the run-around of having to go to the station to book and pay for your ticket.


Food, Drink and Cuisine Advice

In South Africa, it’s called pap, in Zimbabwe, sadza. In Zambia it’s known as nshima. In Kenya, the same cooked porridge is called ugali. This is the basic foundation of the diet of Kenyan locals. Eaten with your hands rather than with cutlery, this cheap meal is worth trying, especially as it usually comes with beans, steamed greens and occasionally, chicken.

While on a tour, meals are laid on by the hotel or safari camp and this means that many travellers miss the opportunity to explore and enjoy the food at some of Kenya’s famous stand-alone restaurants. Nairobi, Mombasa, Lamu, Malindi and Kisumu all have a varied selection of stand-alone restaurants and many cuisines from around the world can be found, from Thai, Mexican, Italian, Ethiopian, Swahili, and Indian.

Being a tropical country, Kenya has an amazing array of tropical fruit. Stunning pineapples and avocadoes are just two of them.

A distinct Asian influence can be found within the food on the Swahili Coast. Lentil samosas and chapattis, steaming and yummy, are a delicious snack to enjoy while strolling along the beach.

The standard of meals varies between safari camps, as well as hotels and lodges. In some cases, the food is outstanding despite the remoteness of the safari camps. In general, one can be assured that the standard in locations that thrive on international guests will be good.

If you are on a self-drive, self-catering holiday, the best plan would be to obtain your supplies in Nairobi or Mombasa. Every supermarket chain in Kenya is working hard to out-do their competitors. There are branches of the largest supermarket chains in major cities like Nairobi, Mombasa, Kisumu and Nakuru. The largest supermarket chain in Kenya is Naivas supermarket – the largest with 62 branches across the country. The others are Tuskys, Choppies, Carrefour, and Game – a South African store that sells, in addition to the foodstuffs and drinks, personal and home care items the other stores sell, also has baby and toy items, entertainment products, and outdoor products. 

Nearly every one of Kenya’s forty-two recognised tribes has its own traditional fermented beer. Muratina, a staple of the Kikuyu community is the most famous and is made from the fruit of Kigelia africana, or the Sausage Tree.

If you are adventurous, you may want to try Chang’aa, the local opaque beer. But be warned – we strongly advise that you stay away from Chang’aa. It’s local sobriquet, ‘Kill-Me-Quick’ is not without foundation. In 2009, about 128 people died after drinking a home brew while nearly 400 people were hospitalised, many suffering blindness, after drinking the same chang’aa brew. It had been laced with methanol, a type of alcohol used in antifreeze or as car fuel. Hundreds of people die every year from drinking this brew. Lacing the drink like this is common when it is homebrewed. The practise is illegal. The drink itself was once banned, but now, it can only be manufactured, packed, sold, or distributed in glass bottles of a capacity of not less than 250 millilitres, and cannot be sold to anyone 18. Production must adhere to certain rules set out by government but these rules, some feel, are not strict enough.

If opaque beer is not your ‘thing’, there’s a number of different locally brewed beers and while they are often sweeter than international brands, one of the best is Tusker Malt. It’s known locally as ‘Keroro’ beer, and Kenyans are very proud of Tusker. It’s best served ice-cold. Made by East African Breweries (EAB), Kenya’s first licensed brewery, it is so named in memorium of George Hurst, one of the founders of EAB, who was killed by an elephant. As he was hunting the elephant at the time one can hardly blame the animal. There are over 250 homebrewers in and around Nairobi and it’s worth trying their wares.

Despite the fact that cannabis is easily available in Kenya, it is illegal; the drug is locally referred to as bhang, bangi, mbichwa, ndom, ndukulu, gode, kamsala or shada kingwelo, kingwela, mali safi,shash. If you are arrested, you will face up to eight years in prison. You don’t want to go to prison in Africa.

Tap water in Kenya is not safe to drink without filtering and boiling it first, even in Nairobi. The quality of the water supply is usually inconsistent with the rainy season having the water with the most contamination. Bottled water from popular brands is readily available. To avoid counterfeit and substandard brands that do not take their water filtration process seriously, purchase it only from a mid-sized or large supermarket. Dasani, Keringet, Highlands, Aquaclear, Quencher, and Aquamist are the safest brands to buy as they have been in operation for a few decades and adhere strictly to the Kenya Bureau of standards water purity level guidelines. 


Climate and Weather

As Kenya lies on the equator it has a pleasant, tropical climate in general. However, there are large regional climatic variations which are influenced by several factors, including altitude. The average daytime temperatures range between 20°C and 28°C. It is warmer on the coast. Kenya is too close to the equator to experience a real winter and summer. There is, however, both a Dry and Wet season.

The Cold Dry Season (June, July, August, September and October)
During the dry season, daytime temperatures are usually around 23°C at higher altitudes, such as the Masai Mara, and 28°C in coastal areas. The season is dominated by clear skies and sunny days and are the coldest months. Early morning temperatures at higher altitude are typically 10°C. The dry season experiences, as one would expect, hardly any rain in most of the country.

The Warm Wet Season (November, December, January, February, March, April and May)
During the Wet season or rainy season as most locals probably call it, daytime temperatures vary only a little between 24°C and 27°C at higher altitudes. At the coast it’s much hotter with daytime temperatures sometimes reaching 38°C. Mornings stay cool at higher altitudes. There are 3 rainy seasons, so to speak, within the wet season: the short rains, the unpredictable rains, and the long rains.

The short rains: During November and December is a period of unpredictable, short rains that lasts about a month. The rain is sometimes heavy, but mostly falls in the late afternoon or evening, and, if you are on safari this will have very little impact.

The unpredictable rains: There is a short dry spell between the short and long rains where any rainfall is unpredictable in location, length, duration, and volume, and occurs between January and February

The long rains: March, April and May experience the most rain. The humidity is higher, and this will be particularly noticeable in the coastal regions. These months can be very cloudy, especially in the highlands, including Aberdare NP and Laikipia Plateau.


Clothing and Dress Recommendations

Many of Kenya’s parks have a climate comparable to this, including the Masai Mara. Amboseli, Meru, Samburu and Tsavo are at a lower altitude and, therefore, warmer. Sunblock, a brimmed hat and sunglasses are a good idea all year-round. Long-sleeved shirts and long trousers will also guard against the scorching sun rays. We recommend you wear light shoes, especially if your itinerary entails a lot of walking, unless you are hiking, then hiking boots are a necessity. Malaria is common in Kenya. Cover up at night, use a 30% DEET product and take anti-malaria medication – you may have to start this medication before you leave home. Obtaining your yellow fever certificate before leaving home is also a good idea.

The Cold Dry Season (June, July, August, September and October)
The evenings can be cool, but not dramatically so, and they are unlikely to drop to less than 12oC. Days may rise to 28oC.  A jersey or jacket, and warm socks, a pair of long trousers or a warm skirt should suffice for the evenings and for morning game drives.

The Warm Wet Season (November, December, January, February, March, April and May)
During the Wet season or rainy season as most locals probably call it, daytime temperatures vary only a little between 24°C and 27°C at higher altitudes. At the coast it’s much hotter with daytime temperatures hovering around 38°C. The great diversity of people living in Kenya means there is a diverse cultural, religious, and customary dress styles. This is perhaps why there’s no strict or standardized dress code. But, please be cognisant of the fact that many Kenyans choose to dress conservatively with men wearing shirts with long sleeves, while women wear trousers or skirts which cover the knee. Kenya is a popular tourist destination, so they are used to more casual dress among travellers, however, if you are at the coast, it would be prudent, and polite, and have shorts, a skirt, a sarong or a wrap, and a T shirt to wear while walking from the pool or the beach back to your hotel, or while you wander the markets and shops. Due to the heat and humidity, it’s best to wear light, cotton clothing.

When on business
If you are doing business in the country, especially in the corporate sector, business attire is preferred. Smart casual is probably best.

When on Safari
Please remember to wear appropriate clothing and shoes. Earth coloured clothes, such as browns, greens and tans are advisable. You don’t want to stand out as a tasty morsel to hungry lions. And on that note, if you are in the game parks, do not get out of your vehicle and keep the doors locked. If lions are around, close the windows.

When out on the town
If you are dining at an upmarket restaurant or seeing a show, smart-casual attire is recommended.


Internet Availability

As of December 2020, Kenya achieved approximately 85.2 internet access across the country thanks to M-Pesa, which we mentioned earlier. It’s a mobile wallet provider and the offered secure payment system encourages internet access.


Electricity and Plug Standards

A universal travel adaptor is essential for all trips abroad. A voltage converter or transformer may also be necessary. Here’s why.

Universal Travel Adapter
Just think of the electronics we have in our lives these days that need to be plugged in to work, or to at least charge the battery - smartphone, tablet, laptop, headphones, camera or Bluetooth speaker, toothbrush, curling irons and travel kettle and travel iron. Avoid purchasing one at the airport as these are usually astronomically expensive.

It is important to note that a travel adapter, even a universal one, does NOT convert the voltage or the frequency. Travel adapters ONLY allow a device from one country to be plugged into the wall outlet of another country, using the universal adapter, as a link between the two.

There is 1 plug type used in Kenya: Type G. It’s important to remember that some travel adaptors are not suitable for any appliance that requires an earth connection. Please check your appliance first.

Voltage Converter or Transformer
Kenya operates on a 240V supply voltage and 50Hz. It is extremely dangerous to use an electrical appliance rated at a different voltage from the supply. If the standard voltage in your country is 240 V, you can use your electric appliances in Kenya. If you're plugging in an appliance that was built for 240-volt electrical input, or an appliance that is compatible with multiple voltages, then a Universal Travel Adapter is all you need. If your appliance is NOT compatible with 240 volts, a voltage converter or transformer, will be necessary.

We strongly advise that, to be on the safe side, that you should bring both a universal travel adapter AND a voltage converter or transformer for your time in Kenya.


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