Brazil

Brazil is a vast, vibrant and magnetic country situated in the central-eastern part of South America, and lapped by the Atlantic Ocean. This melting pot of cultures, ethnicities, and religions is a product of its patchwork past of local traditions, colonial rule, and the influx of immigrants. It is South America’s largest country, with a landmass comparable to that of the United States, and a mosaic of ecosystems that supports the largest array of flora and fauna on the planet. The Brazilian people are typically warm and friendly, while the country’s natural diversity lends itself to myriad travel experiences, from idyllic coastal holidays and riotous Carnaval celebrations to stopovers in the dynamic cities of Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. Adventures await outdoor enthusiasts in the enthralling Amazon jungle.


Banking and Currency

Currency

Brazil's currency unit is the real (plural = reais) and is made up of 100 centavos. The real is issued in denominations of 1 real (1 real notes have been discontinued but the coin is everywhere), 2 reais, 5 reais, 10 reais, 20 reais,50 reais and 100 reais. Prices are written in reais using the symbol R$. Centavos are issued in denominations of 5 centavos, 10 centavos, 25 centavos and 50 centavos. It's best to carry nothing larger than 10 or 20 reais bank notes. This will make it easier to make small purchases as well as easier for small vendors, stores and restaurants to provide you with change.

You will have no need for any reais until you have fully exited Brazilian immigration and customs so avoid exchanging money at your departure airport in North America or Europe. Money exchanges at departure airports outside Brazil usually provide a very poor exchange rate. Wait. The international airports in both São Paulo (Guarulhos International Airport) and Rio de Janeiro (Antonio Carlos Jobim International Airport) have several bank operated, money exchange booths just outside the immigration and customs area. Both cities also have money exchange offices throughout the city and some hotels offer currency exchange.

While it is relatively easy to exchange any currency for reais in both São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, in smaller cities it can sometimes become a time consuming and costly endeavor.

Banking

Banking hours are from 10:00 am to 4:00 pm, Monday through Friday.  Some HSBC branches open from 9:00 am to 6:00 pm.

ATM Machines of banks are generally open from 6:00 am to 10:00 pm (although it is common for the locks on the doors to be not operational).  Note that not all ATM machines accept international credit cards.  The machines that do accept international credit cards will have the symbol(s) of the types of international cards it accepts. Banks that typically have ATM machines that accept international credit cards are HSBC, Citibank and Banco do Brasil.

Generally, ATM machines that accept international credit cards are readily found in large cities.  However, if travelling outside the city or to remote areas, it will be much more difficult to find an ATM machine.  So plan ahead.

Foreign currencies can be exchanged in shops with signs showing 'Cambio'. The exchange rates given for exchanging cash are generally better than those from withdrawing cash from a credit card from an ATM machine (especially with all of the little fees most card companies charge these days).

Be advised that you may encounter difficulties trying to get cash on a weekend. Several foreigners (from Canada and the USA) have encountered problems getting cash from ATM's after 'normal'banking hours on a Friday.


Travel, Transport and Getting Around

Brazil has one of the largest internal air networks in the world, and there are air services between all Brazilian cities. With such great distances between many of the most popular destinations, flying can be a worthwhile option, saving considerable time and money. Internal flights in Brazil are possible with the shuttle service between Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, a regular service from Sao Paulo to Brasília and a shuttle service from Brasília to Belo Horizonte.

At weekends and main holiday times (i.e. Christmas and Carnival) it is advisable to book seats as the services are much used. Panrotas (www.panrotas.com.br) gives all timetables and fares for internal air travel. Gol (www.voegol.com.br) and TAM Airlines (www.tam.com.br) operate the largest number of domestic routes. Airport transfers are available between all major centres.

Always re-confirm flights (at least once); delays and over-bookings do happen. If you change any flights on your airpass be sure to cancel the original booking otherwise the airline may consider it a ‘no-show’ and cancel all your other flights.

Air passes for domestic flights are available on both TAM and Gol, with similar prices, ranging from US$532 for four flights (Gol), up to US$1,384 for nine flights (TAM). Air passes can be purchased only outside of Brazil and in advance of international departure. For more details, contact the airlines.

International car hire companies operate from major airports and main city centres; the most common are Avis and Hertz. The main Brazilian companies include Interlocadora and Localiza. Drivers are generally required to be at least 21 years old.

All major cities have a plentiful supply of taxis, particularly recommended late at night. Official taxis, such as the distinctive yellow-and-blue Rio taxis, are the most reliable; mini-cabs, with pre-paid tickets, are also available at international airports. Taxis are metered and passengers should insist that the meter is turned on: the day-time rate is shown by a little flag marked 1 on top of the meter. The higher rate - after 8.00pm, on Sundays and bank holidays - is shown by a flag marked 2. Outside of cities and main tourist sites, taxis may not have meters, in which case agree on the fare in advance. Tipping taxi drivers is not normal practice.

Brazil is not a bicycle-friendly country on the whole; only a few cities, such as Rio de Janeiro and Curitiba, have dedicated bicycle lanes. In view of the vast distances, heavy traffic and aggressive driving practices, cycling around the country is not recommended for most visitors.

Long distance coach travel is a great way to get around Brazil, with an excellent network of inter-city routes offered by hundreds of different companies. Fares are economical and coaches are safe and comfortable, with all the usual modern facilities. Luxury overnight services (leitos) connect the major cities and popular destinations such as Foz do Iguacu. There are no nationwide companies, but all cities have a central bus station (rodoviaria), where you can book your journey in advance with a choice of operators.

Passenger rail connections in Brazil are virtually non-existent, apart from a few inner-city commuter lines in Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. A few scenic tourist lines still run, notably the Serra Verde Express operating services from Curitiba to Morretes in Paraná, and from Campo Grande to Miranda in the Pantanal.

Ferries serve most coastal ports. One company, Barcas S/A, operates ferries between Rio de Janeiro and Niteroi, and between Angra dos Reis and Ilha Grande. The daily commuter ferry to and from Niterói is very popular, offering amazing views of Guanabara Bay, and much quicker than the long and often traffic-clogged road route.

River transport is the most efficient method of travel in the Amazon Delta. The main hub is Manaus, with ferries going eastwards along the Rio Amazonas, to Belém and Santarém, or upriver from Manaus on the Rio Solimões towards the Colombian border at Tabatinga. Many different companies offer regular departures from Manaus, operating out of the main port, Estacao Hidroviaria near to the Mercado Municipal.


Food, Drink and Cuisine Advice

Brazil's cuisine is as varied as its geography and culture. While there are some very unique dishes of regional origin, there are many dishes that were brought by overseas immigrants and have been adapted to local tastes through the generations.

Brazil's national dish is feijoada, a hearty stew made of black beans and pork cuts (ears, knuckles, chops, sausage and pieces of beef (usually dried). It's served with rice, garnished with collard greens and sliced oranges. It's usually not served in restaurants, but the ones that do typically offer it twice a week (usually on Wednesdays and Saturdays). A typical mistake made by tourists is to eat too much feijoada shortly after arriving. This is a heavy dish, and you need to get used to it before you eat it. Even Brazilians usually eat it parsimoniously. While you are at it, try the caipirinha, Brazil’s signature drink made of wedged limes, sugar and cachaca.

Tap water in Brazilian cities such as Rio and Sao Paulo is generally safe to drink, but it tastes awful. In remote areas, tap water may be suspect. Many hotels and guesthouses filter their water – be sure to inquire about the status where you’re staying. Vigorous boiling for one minute is the most effective means of water purification, though you can also use a water filter, ultraviolet light (such as a steripen) or iodine pills.


Climate and Weather

Due to its balmy tropical and subtropical climate, Brazil is an all-year-round destination. The Brazilian winter lasts for only three months from June to August. From December to February it's summer. The temperature varies within a year with monthly averages in winter between 13 and 18 degrees Celsius. During the summer, temperatures can reach 30 to 40 degrees Celsius in Rio de Janeiro and into the regions in the south, but accompanied by frequent showers and a rather heavy humidity.

During the winter it can get quite cool in the south of Brazil. In Florianopolis it can drop as cold as 2 to 3 degrees celsius. The south is probably best to avoid in the winter unless your plan on visiting the wineries in Bento Goncalves, Rio de Grande do Sul.


Clothing and Dress Recommendations

The clothing style in Brazil is generally casual and comfortable; more formal in cities such as Sao Paulo. Brazilians are proud of their bodies, they like to wear fitted clothing and show a little skin. Sao Paulo is an urban and cosmopolitan city; people like to dress up a little more, if you’re having a touristy day and visiting museum and cultural places etc. dress with a casual feel, think jeans, shorts and t-shirts/tunics.

Rio is also very casual, but with a cool edge, a lot of the locals go from the beach to lunch or for drinks, so carry a light dress or shorts and a t-shirt to cover up, bikinis are for the beach only. If you’re seen walking around in one, even on the boardwalk, you’ll definitely be pegged as a tourist.

Brazil is a huge country with different climates. During the summer it’s pretty much hot and humid everywhere. A main travel essential for Brazil would definitely be sunscreen, sunglasses and a broad sun hat.

For shoes, stick to flat shoes such as sandals, flip flops or comfortable walking shoes as you’ll likely be walking a lot.


Internet Availability

Internet service is readily available in Brazil. Many hotels include (or offer for an additional fee for) high speed internet access, if not in the room or wireless, then at least somewhere in the hotel. Additionally, most larger Brazilian cities have Internet Cafés offering inexpensive, high speed internet access on their computers or yours.


Electricity and Plug Standards

From city to city, voltage varies from 110-220v. It’s not uncommon to arrive in a city to find out that the voltage is 110v and then to travel 1 hour north just to learn that it’s 220v in that particular city. Despite the difference in voltage, the outlets look the same. Make sure to check the voltage used in each city that you visit.

Electricity in Brazil is extremely unstable in some parts and can send surges to your electronic equipment that destroys its charger or transformer.The solution to this is to protect your electrical equipment by running them through a voltage regulator. They are fairly cheaply and  and easily available in most parts of the country

Brazilian plugs and sockets typically come as two flat pins or two round pins, the latter is being standardised for new appliances but variations do occur. Most chargers for phones, laptops etc already have a built in power adaptor so don't worry too much about the different voltage in different cities. It's things like hairdryers where you might want an power converter/adaptor.


Argentina

Ranging from balmy subtropical reaches in the north to the frosty Antarctic shores of the Patagonian south, Argentina is one of the world’s most geographically diverse countries. Its kaleidoscope of landscapes offers endless adventure and leisure opportunities, and this natural variety – coupled with its warm, animated locals, delectable carnivorous cuisine, and fascinating history – makes it a captivating and unforgettable travel destination. Allow yourself to be spellbound by the spectacular torrents of Iguazu Falls, the sprawling ski slopes of Bariloche, the vibrant capital of Buenos Aires, or the age-old Inca city of Humahuaca. Argentina has gifts to delight and mesmerize even the most seasoned explorer.


Banking and Currency

Currency

Peso (ARS; symbol AR$) = 100 centavos. Peso notes are in denominations of AR$2000, 1000, 500, 200, 100, 50, 20 and 10. Coins are in denominations of AR$10, 5, 2 and 1.

US Dollars are accepted in some hotels and tourist centres. Prices in US Dollars are typically marked with US$ to avoid confusion, but sometimes both peso and dollar prices are both preceded by just $, so check if unsure.

Banking

Banking hours: Monday-Friday 10h00-15h00.

Most major credit cards are accepted, but not as widely as in the US or Europe; even some major hotels do not have credit card facilities.

ATMs are available in most cities and have options in English, but it is still best to carry alternative forms of payment as daily withdrawal limits are low and machines don't always work. During national holidays ATMs can run out so it is wise to withdraw in advance.

Foreign tourists who are not resident in Argentina can no longer pay for tourism-related services (air tickets, bus travel, hotel rooms, all-inclusive tours etc) in Pesos. These services must be paid for with foreign credit and bank cards, money transfers (in foreign currencies) from abroad, in cash with foreign money (eg US Dollars) or with cheques from foreign accounts.

It is advised to bring traveller's cheques in US Dollars; these can be exchanged at banks, bureaux de change and some hotels. However, it is often difficult to exchange these in the smaller towns.



Travel, Transport and Getting Around

Argentina is huge, making air travel the most practical way to get around. Many flights are routed through Buenos Aires. Aerolíneas Argentinas (AR) (www.aerolineas.com.ar) serves many domestic destinations from its key hubs in Buenos Aires, Cordoba and Bariloche.


Driving conditions in Argentina offer everything from excellent roads to rural traxks. A 4x4 is recommended if venturing too far outside rural areas. It is advisable that only confident drivers tackle Buenos Aires’ roads. Major roads are generally in good condition, although rural roads, composed of packed dirt, can become impassable after rain. The 'A' roads are the autopistas (motorways) and those labelled 'R' are rutas (roads) - tolls exist on all main roads.

Visitors aged 21 or over may hire a car in Argentina. Car hire is available in most towns and cities, and many international companies operate out of Buenos Aires and main tourist destinations. The maximum speed limit on motorways is 130kph (80mph), 80kph (50mph) on one-lane roads, while the speed limit in built-up areas varies (40-60kph/25-37mph). Argentinians drive on the right side of the road.


In Buenos Aires the safest option is to telephone a radio taxi; a reputable company is Radio Taxi Pidalo (tel: (011) 4956 1200). Taxis are readily available and can be hailed from the side of the road but make sure the metre is used. It is advisable to use recommended remises (taxis) - which can only be booked by telephone and have fixed prices. Passengers should enquire beforehand.

Buenos Aires runs a cycle scheme. Register at www.mejorenbici.gob.ar for free, two-hour use of yellow city bikes.

Buenos Aires is the only Argentine city with an underground train service, known as the Subte (www.subte.com.ar). The Subte has six lines and is generally clean, safe, fast and efficient. Access to the subway operates under the card called SUBE. You can buy the card at any point of sale and recharge it at the underground ticket offices. Overland urban trains also serve the capital city and its suburbs.

Trains and trolleybuses operate in Argentina's second city, Rosario. Colectivos (local buses) operate on main thoroughfares in all large towns and cities.


Several rail companies operate in Argentina, including Ferrobaires (tel: (011) 4304 0028;www.ferrobaires.gba.gov.ar), serving destinations such as Mar del Plata and Bahia Blanca. Trenes del Litoral (tel: (011) 4554 8018; www.trenesdellitoral.com.ar) operates between Buenos Aires and Posadas, linking many little towns in the provinces of Entre Rios and Corrientes.


Food, Drink and Cuisine Advice

Tap water is generally considered safe in main cities and towns, especially in Buenos Aires, but otherwise bottled water is recommended. If bottled water is unavailable then boil water for over a minute before drinking.

Argentina serves up an exceptional standard of food, although choices can often be restricted to meat, pasta and pizza. Buenos Aires, however, offers a wide selection of culinary genres, with Japanese, Thai and Asian-fusion food becoming increasingly popular. Vegetarians may struggle to find extensive veggie options, but most restaurants do serve vegetables and salads. Outside Buenos Aires, however, vegetarians may be faced with quite limited choices.

Wherever you are in the country, meat is the name of the game here, and if you fancy broadening your carnivorous horizons, then there is a weird and wonderful array of meat treats to get stuck into. The traditional Argentine parrilla (grill) is the very heart and soul of Argentina's cuisine. Sample morcilla (blood sausage), chinchulines (intestines), or simply go for a slab of prime Argentine beef - all sizzled to perfection. Don’t forget to liberally douse your chosen meats in delicious chimichurri – a sauce made from finely chopped parsley and oregano, garlic, olive oil and vinegar. Those after an authentic and reliably delicious meat experience in Buenos Aires, try El Trapiche in Palermo, and Desnivel in San Telmo.

For breakfast, head to a traditional confitería (café) and sample a few medialunas (small, croissant-like pastries) and a strong café con leche. In cities, fashionable resto-bars (restaurant-bars) are taking hold, offering more contemporary takes on traditional Argentine cuisine, and all manner of lunch options. A strong Italian influence means quality ice cream is also popular, and in summertime Buenos Aires the many gelaterias (ice cream parlours) are certainly worth making use of. In the evening, Argentines dine late - 9pm is considered early – and the feasts are typically massive.

Argentina's wines have flooded the international market in recent years, and are famed for their quality and value. Try a light pinot noir from Patagonia or an inky and smooth Malbec, and don’t miss Argentina’s celebrated white, the aromatic Torrontés.

Around 15% is acceptable in restaurants as well as bars (unless you were dissatisfied) which waiting staff rely on to survive.



Climate and Weather

Argentina's climate ranges from the great heat and extensive rains of the subtropical Chaco in the north, through to the pleasant climate of the central Pampas, and the sub-Antarctic cold of the Patagonian Sea in the south. The main central area is temperate, but can be very hot and humid during summer (December to February) and chilly in winter.

The most pleasant times to visit Buenos Aires are September-November and February- March. The city is best avoided in January, when the heat is at its most intense and many of its residents flee to the coast leaving behind a comparative ghost city. Exploring the wilds of Patagonia is best done in the late spring and summer months – between November and February – whilst the northern regions are at their most hospitable in the spring, autumn and winter. If heading to Argentina for a ski trip, hit the slopes during mid-June to October.


Clothing and Dress Recommendations

Lightweight clothing is generally all that is required in the north, whereas warm clothes are certainly necessary in the south, up in the mountains and during winter months in the central area. It is sensible to carry waterproofs in all areas and bring a good sunscreen, sun hat, sunglasses and good walking shoes.








Internet Availability

Internet access is available in most towns and cities in locutorios (phone centres) and internet cafés. Many estancias and rural areas are cut off from both internet and telephone access. Wi-Fi is increasingly found in more upmarket hotels.


Electricity and Plug Standards

The official standard for plugs and sockets (outlets) in Argentina is the "Type I" IRAM-2073 which is practically interchangeable with the standards in Australia and China. However, many non-grounded sockets in Argentina are the "Type C" Europlug type. If your appliance's plug doesn't match the shape of these sockets, you will need one or more travel plug adapters in order to plug in. Travel plug adapters simply change the shape of your appliance's plug to match whatever type of socket you need to plug into. If it is crucial to be able to plug in no matter what, bring an adapter for both types.

Electrical sockets (outlets) in Argentina usually supply electricity at between 220 and 240 volts AC. If you're plugging in an appliance that was built for 220-240 volt electrical input, or an appliance that is compatible with multiple voltages, then an adapter is all you need.

But travel plug adapters do not change the voltage, so the electricity coming through the adapter will still be the same 220-240 volts the socket is supplying. If your appliance is not compatible with 220-240 volts, you will need a voltage converter.


Bolivia

Home to ancient traditions and cultures that are fast disappearing, Bolivia is the continent’s most indigenous country, with 60% of its inhabitants descended from Native Americans - a rich heritage that is evident in the local art, cuisine, music and traditions. Equally as fascinating is the incredibly diverse landscape, stretching from the central Andes to the Amazon Basin and encompassing a terrain that includes snowy peaks, the world’s highest navigable lake, rainforests, dry valleys, and volcanoes both active and extinct. Whether you are in search of colourful festivals, ancient remains or an outdoor adventure, Bolivia is a tourist’s treat waiting to be discovered.


Banking and Currency

Currency

Notes are in denominations of 200, 100, 50, 20, 10 and 5 bolivianos. Coins are in denominations of Bs5, 2 and 1, and 50, 20 and 10 centavos. Bolivianos are sometimes referred to as pesos.

The Boliviano is tied to the US Dollar. Due to the relative weakness of the Bolivian economy, the boliviano remains vulnerable and so many businesses operate in US dollars. Most hotels and tour operators quote in dollars and will accept payment in either currency. Smaller shops, stalls and local businesses will only accept bolivianos.

Change and coins are in very short supply in Bolivia, which is something of a vicious circle as local buses, shops and taxis often won’t accept big denomination notes. Try to break big notes wherever possible – namely hotels, restaurants, large stores and bus companies.

There are no import restrictions on local and foreign currency; export restrictions on both local and foreign currency are up to the amounts imported and must be declared.

Banking

Banking hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1200 and 1430-1700, and Sat 0900-1300.

MasterCard and Visa credit cards are the most widely accepted in most mid to top range hotels and restaurants, but otherwise have limited acceptance. American Express is rarely accepted. It is best to carry cash with you.

There are ATMs in most of the larger towns and cities. Even the smaller towns have at least one bank with an ATM, and there are ATMs available at the larger airports. Enlace is the nationwide network from which you can withdraw either US dollars or bolivianos. Sometimes in smaller towns, banks will offer international withdrawals for a small fee over the counter.

US Dollar and Euro travellers’ cheques are accepted in the large cities, but outside the cities they are useless. Pound Sterling travellers’ cheques are not widely accepted. It is best to carry cash with you when travelling to smaller towns.

Money can be changed in hotels and casas de cambio. There are also plenty of money street changers if there are no official exchanges available, but be sure to check for forged notes in these cases. The boliviano is the preferred currency with exchange against the euro now preferred to the dollar.


Travel, Transport and Getting Around

Internal flights are operated by Boliviana de Aviación (www.boa.bo). Flights to the Amazon are largely operated by Amazonas (www.amaszonas.com) from La Paz, Cochabamba and Santa Cruz. Because of the country's topography and tropical regions, air travel is the fastest, but not the cheapest method of transport (US$50-$100), although delays, cancellations and unreliability are common. La Paz (El Alto), which is the highest airport in the world, and Santa Cruz (Viru Viru) are the principal domestic air hubs. Busier routes should be booked a few days in advance, and it is important to reconfirm the day before departure. The is a mandatory departure tax of around Bs14, payable in bolivianos.

Bolivia’s size, geography and lack of basic infrastructure means that travel by road can often be a tumultuous, long and scary ride, yet it is still the first choice mode of transport for travellers and Bolivians alike. Most major roads are paved but in bad condition. Vehicles often have to take unpaved, dirt tracks. There are main highways entering and exiting major cities like Santa Cruz and La Paz. B roads are unpaved but widely used. Few travellers rent cars. Virtually no international car rental services are available, but there are local companies in all the major cities. The legal hire age is 25. The national speed limit is 90kph (55mph). The use of seat belts is not enforced, nor is the use of mobile phones prohibited. Vehicles drive on the right hand side, though this rule is overlooked on some mountain roads when turning – the vehicle going uphill has priority. Breakdown and petrol services on Bolivia’s roads are scarce. Fill your tank whenever possible. An International Driving Permit is required. This can be issued by Federación Inter-Americana de Touring y Automóvil (www.fitac.org) on production of a national licence, but it is wiser to obtain the International Permit before departure.

Taxis can usually be found anywhere and at anytime in Bolivia, and are the safest mode of transport. Many people work as part-time taxi drivers in cities to supplement their income. Fares tend to be fixed, rarely over Bs15. Tipping is not necessary. In the lowlands moto-taxis are commonly used, while micros (small minibuses) are the main form of urban transport in big cities. In some cities, fixed-route minibuses, otherwise known as colectivos or trufis are commonly used: there’s usually somebody shouting out the route through a window. In rural areas, catching a truck is a cheap but rough form of transport

Biking is rare in Bolivia. For proper touring you will need to bring a bike suitable for mountainous terrain. The country is home to some of the world’s best downhill mountain tracks, notably “Death Road” outside La Paz.

Bolivia has two separate and unconnected networks - Eastern and Western. The Eastern network's hub is Santa Cruz, from where Ferroviaria Oriental (www.ferroviariaoriental.com) runs trains to the Brazilian borders. The Western line, running from Oruro via Uyuni and Tupiza to Villazón (where you can connect to trains to Argentina) is run by Ferroviaria Andina (www.fca.com.bo). Trains have three to four classes and restaurant cars. Buy tickets in advance from the offices in Santa Cruz and La Paz respectively. There’s also a slow but scenic route between Sucre and Potosí.

Double-decker passenger boats operate between the various small islands on Lake Titicaca with regular departures from Copacabana to the Isla del Sol. Motorised canoes traverse the many rivers of the Amazon basin with the most regular departures from Rurrenabaque.


Food, Drink and Cuisine Advice

Water used for drinking, brushing teeth or making ice should be boiled or otherwise sterilised (iodine tablets or tincture are good options). It is best to avoid drinking tap water entirely while in Bolivia. Bottled water is purified (but check the seal as they are sometimes refilled in stores). All branded milk products are pasteurised; powdered or tinned milk is also available. Only eat well-cooked meat and fish, and vegetables should be cooked and fruit peeled. Be wary of street stalls or anything that has been reheated.

Bolivian cuisine is as distinctive and varied as its landscape. There’s nothing in the form of haute cuisine here, but you will find a large range of both national and international restaurants available at cheap prices, especially in the large cities. Local speciality food and drink is a must – these differ according to region (highlands, lowlands and the Altiplano). La Paz offers the biggest variation. Go straight for the markets or set lunch menus, or alternatively you can also find pizzerias, fast food, Chinese restaurants (known as chifas), popular spit-roast chicken restaurants as well as high-end eateries. Food in the Altiplano is less varied; Aymaran cuisine is centred on carbohydrates – especially potatoes, rice and quinoa – and meat (mutton and llama). Food in the lowlands tends to be more tropical (yucca and plantain are staples) with beef featuring heavily due to the cattle herding in the region. Although Bolivia is landlocked seafood is still available, mostly around Lake Titicaca.

Generally speaking, tipping is not expected in Bolivia, but it is welcomed. It is customary to add 10% as a tip to the 13% service charge added to hotel and restaurant bills.


Climate and Weather

Bolivia has a temperate climate but temperatures can differ dramatically between day and night. The wettest period is November to March, which, in extreme circumstances, may induce landslides in mountainous areas, and cause certain roads to become impassable. The northeast slopes of the Andes are semi-tropical. During the wet season the salt flats become flooded – it is a beautiful spectacle, as the flats turn into a mirror of the sky above. Winter is perhaps the best time to visit (May-October), especially in the hot and humid lowlands, as it is cooler and drier. In the highlands, it rains much less, remains sunny through the day but gets noticeably colder at night. Visitors sometimes find the highlands (especially La Paz) uncomfortable because of the thin air due to high altitude. The mountain areas can become very cold at night.


Clothing and Dress Recommendations

In terms of clothing, lightweight, natural fabrics and waterproofs are best. Layering is a good idea if taking the tour of the salt flats – it’s extremely cold at night and early mornings, but when the sun comes out it warms up quickly. Warmer clothing is necessary at night in the Altiplano, especially in La Paz, Oruro and Potosí. If you need warm clothing, the markets of La Paz and Sucre are a good place to find alpaca wool jumpers and scarves.


Internet Availability

Internet cafés are available in most towns and cities. They charge around 3 to 5 bolivianos per hour. Don’t expect the same speed as at home: in many places it is still dial-up. Some internet cafés will also offer net phone or Skype services. Hotels, hostels and cafés may also offer free Wi-Fi access.


Electricity and Plug Standards

In Bolivia the power outlets accept either a flat blade ungrounded plug (Type A) or a two-pronged ungrounded plug (Type C).

Electricity in Bolivia is 230 Volts, alternating at 50 cycles per second. If you travel to Bolivia with a device that does not accept 230 Volts at 50 Hertz, you will need a voltage converter.


Peru

Peru is most famous for the sacred archaeological site of Machu Picchu – visited each year by scores of intrepid hikers who brave the Inca Trail’s arduous slopes to explore the age-old ruins. The country’s attractions extend far beyond the mystical allure of this legendary location and include palm-fringed beaches, quaint Andean villages and archaeological treasures that predate Machu Picchu by hundreds of years – all imbued with the nation’s rich melange of indigenous and colonial cultures. Equally enticing are the exotic reaches of Peru’s Amazon rainforest; Lima’s superb eateries, exquisite architecture and effervescent nightlife; the glittering, mountain-ringed waters of Lake Titicaca; and the vibrant city of Cusco, referred to by the Incas as ‘the centre of the world’.


Banking and Currency

Currency

Nuevo (new) Sol (PEN; symbol S/.) = 100 céntimos. Nuevo Sol notes are in denominations of S/.200, 100, 50, 20 and 10. Coins are in denominations of S/.5, 2 and 1, and 50, 20, 10, 5 and 1 céntimos.

Note: US Dollars are also in use and accepted for payment, particularly in tourist areas. While effectively interchangeable, it is best to use local currency wherever possible, and it is always good for tourists to have some local currency in small denominations, to pay for buses, taxis and goods in some small establishments.

There are no restrictions on the import or export of local or foreign currency, but amounts exceeding US$10,000 must be declared.

Only a few bureau de change in Lima and Cusco will exchange currencies other than US Dollars. Outside Lima, it is virtually impossible. US Dollars can be exchanged everywhere and banks, hotels and many shops also readily accept US Dollars (although very old, torn or damaged notes are usually rejected). It is not recommended to exchange money from street vendors.

Banking

Banking hours: Mon-Fri 0900-1800, Sat 0900-1300 (may vary during the summer).

All major credit cards are accepted, but usage may be limited outside of Lima and tourist areas. Visa and MasterCard are the most commonly accepted. It is also sensible to carry some cash rather than relying only on cards.

ATMs are now generally regarded as one of the best ways to obtain money in Peru. They are found almost everywhere, including in small towns, although when travelling in remote places it is best to have some cash just in case the nearby ATMs are not working or have run out of money. In bigger cities, use ATMs inside banks for greater security, especially at night.

Banks will exchange traveller’s cheques although it can be a slow process outside Lima. The ability to use traveller's cheques is also quite limited in some areas so you should check whether or not they will be accepted in the area you are visiting prior to travel. The use of ATMs is generally preferable, but if you do decide to bring traveller's cheques, the best currency to bring them in is US Dollars.





Travel, Transport and Getting Around

LAN (LP) (www.lan.com), Taca Perú (T0) (www.taca.com) and LC Perú (W4) (www.lcperu.pe) handle virtually all domestic air traffic. Routes link Lima to Andahuaylas, Arequipa, Ayacucho, Cajamarca, Chiclayo, Cusco, Huánuco, Iquitos, Juliaca-Puno, Piura, Pucallpa, Puerto Maldonado, Tacna, Tarapoto, Trujillo, Tumbes and other cities. Flights to Huaraz are occasionally offered. For information on internal flights, contact the Peruvian Corporation of Airports (Corpac) (www.corpac.gob.pe).

When travelling around Peru, you have to make a decision: time or money? The bus from Lima to Cusco can take over 24 hours instead of a flight of about 1 hour 30 minutes, but it will be a fraction of the price. If taking a shorter trip to Peru, flights will leave you a lot more time at your destination.

You can book in advance from outside the country, or a few days in advance through local tour operators for not much more money. Some flights (of lower prices, and particularly with LAN) are for Peruvians only – if you purchase them be prepared to pay a fine. Domestic flight schedules are often subject to last minute change – try to confirm that your flight is leaving at the time stated on your ticket before you head to the airport.

International car hire firms have offices in all the major cities and bigger airports. You must be at least 25 to hire a car in Peru, and will need to present your passport, driving licence from your country, credit card as a guarantee and sometimes a cash deposit. The minimum driving age is 18. Seatbelts should be worn both in the front and back of a car, and also on coaches (though most people don’t bother). Theoretically, the speed limit is 100kph (62mph) on the highways and 35kph (22mph) in urban areas, but few Peruvians follows these laws. You can drive for six months on a UK driving licence and up to a year on an International Driving Licence. All foreign vehicles must have documentation from their own national automobile association or you can obtain it on the Peruvian border before entering the country. Always carry your driving licence, a copy of your passport and, if the vehicle is hired, a copy of the rental contract.

Main roads in Peru are, at least, reasonably paved; others can range from extraordinarily bumpy to impassable after landslides. Landslides are frequent in the mountains during the rainy season (December to March), making for slow travel and closed roads. Take care driving on the mountain roads, which are narrow, windy and above all high up. Local drivers who know the roads well go like the clappers, but if you try it you may well go off a cliff. The well-maintained Pan-American Highway runs down the length of Peru's coast, with intersecting highways running east into the mountains.

Many unlicensed taxi companies operate in Peru and visitors are advised to avoid these. They usually have a red and white taxi sign on the windscreen. Licensed yellow taxis are the only cabs allowed in downtown Lima. Taxis do not have meters and you should agree fares before departure (they are relatively inexpensive). Extensive and safe taxi services are available by telephone in main cities. Hotels and hostels will book them for you. Taxi fares increase by 35 to 50% after midnight and on holidays. Drivers do not expect tips.

Taking the bus is the travel method of choice in Peru; buses go in almost every direction. You can book yourself onto everything from a bus with seats that recline until fully horizontal and hostesses to bring you dinner, to a squashed-in place in the back of a pick-up truck, depending on your budget.

The crème de la crème of coach company in Peru is Cruz del Sur (tel: (01) 311 5050;www.cruzdelsur.com.pe). It’s the most expensive, but you’ll get a nice meal and a good night’s sleep. Other coach companies are Flores (tel: (01) 332 1212; www.floreshnos.net), Linea (tel: (01) 424 0836;www.transporteslinea.com.pe) and MovilTours (tel: (01) 716 8000; www.moviltours.com.pe). Otherwise just turn up at a bus station or ask around.

Public transport in Lima is provided by conventional buses and by minibuses (combis), though they are overcrowded, sometimes dangerous and not particularly useful for tourists. These operate from 06h00 to 00h00 on established routes; wherever possible, try to avoid using bus travel late at night. Lima has a clean, efficient metro system which links nine districts, and allows travel between Miraflores and Lima centre.

Peru Rail (tel: (01) 517 1884; www.perurail.com) runs comfortable tourist trains between Puno and Cusco and between Cusco and Machu Picchu. Ferrocarril Central Andino (tel: (01) 226 6363;www.ferrocarrilcentral.com.pe or www.rrdc.com/op_peru_fcca.html) runs a twice-monthly tourist service on renovated trains between Lima and Huáncayo. This spectacular route is the second highest railway in the world (the highest being in Tibet).



Food, Drink and Cuisine Advice

Drink only bottled water, and take purification tablets in case bottled water is unavailable. Pasteurised milk is widely available, but if you are staying in mountain towns you will also find that unpasteurised milk is often sold in shops, served in plastic bags. Avoid dairy products that are likely to have been made from unboiled milk.

Only eat well-cooked meat and fish. You will find that there is plenty of street food available in stores and at markets, and you should try to ensure that what you buy has been heated properly and not been left out. In particular, you will find lots of ceviche, a cold seafood dish made using raw fish, which is practically the national dish. It is heavily acidic, which must kill some bacteria; nevertheless be aware that unless the fish is very fresh the potential for food poisoning is high. Vegetables should be cooked and fruit peeled.


Climate and Weather

The weather in Peru varies according to area – the changes in altitude are so extreme that the climate goes from freezing snow in the mountains to boiling sun on the coast. Likewise, the coast covers such a large stretch of longitude that the temperature changes dramatically as you head further south.

On the coast winter lasts from June to September. The weather tends to be overcast and slightly damp at this time, but rarely very cold. It hardly ever rains in Lima nor most of the coast, except for Tumbes and Piura, which have tropical climates.

During June to September, the mountainous areas are often sunny during the day but cold at night. This is high tourist season and the best time to visit most regions. Rainy season in the Andes starts in September and peaks between January and March, and this is a dreadful and occasionally dangerous time to be hiking.

Heavy rains in the mountains and jungle last from December to April. It is rainy and hot for most of the year, but between March and September there are occasional cold surges which might require a jumper.


Clothing and Dress Recommendations

For travel in Peru, a variety of clothes are necessary. You will need very lightweight clothes for summer on the coast, and thermals, hats, gloves and ski jackets for winter up in the mountains. It can become freezing at night at altitude and remain hot and sticky through the nights in the jungle. Waterproof clothing is thoroughly recommended for the rainy season, because the heavens open very suddenly, and then it pours.

If you are travelling to the jungle you’ll need something protective and waterproof for your feet. For any mountain hiking you’ll need proper, supportive boots. If you’re spending time along the coast you’ll need sandals or flip-flops.


Internet Availability

Public internet booths and internet cafés are widely available in cities and most towns. Wi-Fi is becoming increasingly common in cafés, restaurants and hotels.


Electricity and Plug Standards

Electricity in Peru is 220 Volts and 60 Hertz (cycles per second). If you want to use a 110-volt appliance in Peru, you’ll need to buy a voltage converter. But always check before spending money on an converter, as many modern laptops and digital cameras can safely take both 110 and 220 volts (they are dual voltage).

Many of Peru’s top-end hotels have outlets for 110-volt appliances. They should be clearly labeled as such, but always check if you’re unsure.

There are two types of electrical outlets in Peru. One accepts two-pronged plugs with flat, parallel blades, while the other takes plugs with two round prongs. Many Peruvian electrical outlets are designed to accept both types.

If your appliance has a different plug attachment (such as a three-pronged UK plug), you’ll need to buy an adapter. Universal plug adapters are inexpensive and easy to carry around. It’s a good idea to buy one before you go to Peru (most major airports have a store selling plug adapters).


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