Myanmar remains, as ever, a country shrouded in mystery. The hardest fought and least travelled paths in life, however, yield unforgettable memories. Stories that we pass onto generations. For the uninitiated, the sheer spread of ancient temples in Bagan, or the floating gardens and dancing fisherman of Inle Lake, or the stretches of powdery sand in Ngapali will not fail to astonish. Myanmar is a country that draws repeat visits, charming visitors to explore one more corner, understand one more facet. Today, Myanmar is open to the world after decades of isolation. As Southeast Asia’s second largest country and approximately the size of France and England combined, Myanmar is home a beautiful kaleidoscope of diversity of over 130 different ethnic groups.
Myanmar’s 2000 kilometers of coastline remain pristine and pure. Its terrain stretches from the snowcapped Himalayan peaks in the north, to the coral-fringed islands of the Andaman Sea in the south. It is a landscape of beauty and contrast, studded with pagodas and palaces, forested hills and fertile valleys. Myanmar fascinates with its mix of ancient cultures, ethnic minorities and diverse landscapes. Many tourist destinations offer sea and sun, relaxation and adventure, pleasure and discovery –Myanmar offers all this in an untouched, still-to-be discovered way.
The last royal capital of Myanmar. Mention of the word “Mandalay” conjures up sentiments of romance and tragedy, as immortalized in the literary gifts of George Orwell, Rudyard Kipling and Somerset Maugham. The true saga of the last reigning monarch King Thibaw, however, is imbued with romance and tragedy as much as any literary account. Through a combination of deceit, manipulation and false hopes stirred by court advisors and his wife, the fitful reign of King Thibaw ended when the British took Upper Burma in 1885. His family was exiled to India, where they lived in near poverty for the remainder of their lives. Before him, the struggles of the many ancient kings to gain control of the region were as complex and fantastical as a fairy tale.
With British rule, Mandalay’s streets were laid out on a grid system with the large, square palace compound of the former King Thibaw as its epicenter and surrounded by high, red walls and a moat. The effect is unlike any other city in Southeast Asia. With Myanmar’s highest concentration of monks, hundreds of monasteries, and legions of craftsmen, Mandalay is widely regarded as the religious and cultural heart of Myanmar. Among the most venerable pagodas are the Mahamuni Paya, now home to an ancient Buddha image from Rakhine State in western Myanmar, covered in gold leaf by devout Buddhists over many years; and Kuthodaw Paya, with 729 marble slabs bearing inscriptions of the entire Buddhist Tripitaka canon placed around the central stupa. According to legend, on a visit to Myanmar accompanied by his disciple Ananda, the Buddha climbed the 236 meter high Mandalay Hill overlooking the surrounding plains. Standing at the summit, he pointed with arm outstretched to where the Mandalay Palace stands today, and declared that a great city would be founded there after 2,400 years. That year corresponds to 1857 AD, when King Mindon ordered the move of the royal capital from Amarapura to a new city constructed at the foot of Mandalay Hill and bearing its name. Near the top of the hill, a standing Buddha image represents the prophecy.
The Ayeyarwady River, also known as the Irrawaddy River, is Myanmar’s major waterway, both in size and commercial significance, running from North to South through the length of the country. The river sustains two endangered indigenous creatures - the freshwater Irrawaddy dolphin and the river shark, as well as a host of fish and bird species. It’s possible to do lovely boat cruises between certain points on the river, such as a day cruise between Mandalay and the ancient city of Mingun - home to a massive pagoda base that, had it been finished, would be the largest of its kind in the world - as well as longer cruises between the major centres along its banks, which include Mandalay, Bagan and the country’s capital, Yangon. Forays along the Ayeyarwady’s tributaries take in many remote villages and views that would be difficult to experience otherwise.
Resting on the banks of the mighty Irrawaddy River, Old Bagan is both a wondrous UNESCO World Heritage Site and the core of the Bagan Archeological Zone. This charming destination is home to lovely museums, several magnificent temples, enticing shops, and mouth-watering cuisine. Must-see attractions include the famous Shwesandaw Pagoda; the exquisite red-brick facade of the Htilominlo Temple; the interesting exhibitions at the Bagan Archaeological Museum; and the panoramic views from the Atwin Zigon Pagoda. Enjoy a leisurely round of golf at the spectacular 18-hole Bagan Nyaung Oo Golf Club, or wander down to the waterfront and admire the spectacular views and bustling riverside trade.
Situated high up in the western Shan State, Kalaw is a former hill station founded by British civil servants. It is something of a high-altitude resort – cool, calm and leafy – but is also widely known as a trekking Mecca in Myanmar, as those wishing to explore the surrounds can do so without prior permission. Its population is diverse, as Nepali Gurkhas, Indian Hindus, Sikhs and Muslims came here to build the roads and railway line during the British period. A wide variety of exploring options are available, including three-day treks to Inle Lake or Pindaya. At the town’s heart is its market, where villagers from the surrounding areas come to sell their produce and an eclectic range of foods. Visit the Aung Chang stupa, or take a ride to the Green Hill Valley elephant camp, founded in 2011 to care for ageing and ailing elephants.
Hautingly picturesque, Inle Lake is one of Myanmar’s most iconic destinations in the mountains of Shan State, where floating gardens made of woven water hyacinth reeds, silt and bamboo provide a backdrop for graceful, one-legged boat rowers. Inle Lake is perfect for leisurely boat excursions, walking explorations or longer trekking trips through the villages of the Shan, Pa-O, Intha and Danu ethnic minority groups.
Inle Lake lies at an altitude of nearly 3,000 feet, fringed by tall grasses and reed beds, ringed by well-forested hills and, according to the season, may often be wreathed in mist. The main body of the lake is some 13 miles in length with calm, crystal clear waters. Its shores and floating islands are home to villages built on stilts, whose inhabitants are the hardworking and resourceful Intha people. These are the famous leg rowers, skillfully navigating the lake by rowing in a standing position – one leg wrapped around an oar pivoted on their hip, another leg balancing on the prow of their boat, and body poised to plunge a fish trap into the waters beneath. In addition to their fishing skills, the Intha are traditional market gardeners, cultivating flowers and vegetables on a floating tangle of water hyacinth and silt anchored to the lake bed by bamboo.
Moreover, Inle Lake is an official bird sanctuary, rich in wildlife. Its main body is reached along a narrow waterway from the northernmost lakeside town of Nyaungshwe. The boat ride passes waterside temples and villages, and in the less populated stretches, herons stand in solitary contemplation at the water’s edge while cormorants dive for their prey. In the principal part of the lake, there are many islands to visit. Away from these developed areas, a leisurely canoe paddle through channels branching from the lake brings a closer view of the local life, with fascinating encounters and friendly villagers. Heading south from the main body of the lake the traveller passes through another long and narrow waterway to reach the 17th century ruins of Samkar, where Shan and Pa-O villagers now live side by side, and the ancient Tharkong Pagoda, which legend tells was founded by an early Burmese king. The region offers ample trekking opportunities and extended walks to keep the active traveller busy. Trekking out into the Shan hills east of Nyaungshwe, at the lake’s northern end will lead to Pa-O villages and beautiful views of the lake along the way. Extended walks through rice paddies pass many Shan stupa ruins that lie dotted around the countryside.
With a population of over 5 million, Yangon, also known as Rangoon, was the capital of Myanmar up until the end of 2005. It remains the largest city, and is still the pivotal commercial hub of the country today. A visit to this magnificent city will allow you to take in the interesting mix of British, Burmese, Chinese and Indian cultures that mingle there. The skyline is an interesting contrast of decaying colonial architecture and modern high-rises, dominated by the golden glow of the Shwedagon Pagoda, an exquisite Buddhist temple that draws pilgrims from across the globe. Your time here would be well spent visiting the impressive array of temples, museums and markets that the city has to offer.
History Yangon in brief
European countries in a race to control trade routes had established trading posts in across South East Asia. East India Trading company controlled by the British had extended its operations to the Burmese coast and where trading with the Burmese kings. Three Anglo-Burmese wars flared up and in the second Anglo-Burmese war 1852 the British took over Southern Burma and made Rangoon its capital. The old name of Rangoon was Dagon. After third war in 1885 and ousting king Thibaw in Mandalay where the capital was located Rangoon became the capital for the whole country of Burma. Dr William Montgomerie sketched the new plan for the city and Lt Alexander Fraser from the Bengal Engineers implemented. Many architects were employed to fill in the city plan with schools, hospitals, parks, banks, shops and administrative buildings.
Fast forward… the colonial times are long gone, but in Yangon they have left behind a rich architectural heritage, of a type which many other capital cities of the region has been lost to “progress”. Yangon has the largest number of colonial buildings in the whole of Southeast Asia. Many colonial-era buildings that today host state institutions and authorities, such as government banks and the Port Authority, as well as the High Court and City Hall, are clustered in the downtown area. The Strand Hotel is there, too, built by the famous Sarkies Brothers in 1901, and today a sumptuous reminder of a bygone era.
Unlike many of its regional counterparts Yangon is also still first and foremost a green city, despite the battering it received from a cyclone in 2008. In the tranquil settings of Kandawgyi Lake and Inya Lake, and along its wide avenues, Yangon can still boast countless old trees and vegetation. A panoramic view of the city reveals its beauty – with the awe-inspiring Shwedagon Pagoda in its golden hue on one side, on a low hill, and on the other side the ancient Sule Pagoda and its encircling shops in the downtown area.
Mergui Archipelago, located in southernmost part of Myanmar (Burma), comprises over 800 beautiful islands. Due to its virtual isolation, the island and surrounding seas are alive with an amazing diversity of flora & fauna and very beautiful underwater scenes and marine life. Just north of the Surin Islands, an imaginary line divides Thai waters from Myanmar’s Mergui Archipelago. Also known as the Myeik (Mergui) Archipelago, this immense area covers approximately 36,000 sq km (14,000 sq miles).
Diving here is still in its infancy, as the entire region has been off-limits to outsiders since the late 1940s. The archipelago was opened for tourism in 1997, yet much of the area remains unexplored. The islands are similar to their Thai counterparts, eg. Phuket, Surin with rugged, high-profile, limestone and granite topography. One obvious difference, aside from the sheer number of islands, is their unspoilt terrestrial scenery.
Among those islands are various mangroves, wild life, caves, lagoons fresh water falls and rivers in the forest. Dense bush and rainforest cover most areas above the high-tide line, while vast stretches of mangroves and magnificent mile-long white-sand beaches are interspersed with rocky headlands, tidal creeks and a few freshwater rivers. The only human inhabitants in the area are Mokens or Salone Sea gypsies. They live on boats during dry season and remain on land during rainy season. They still practice the same fishing and boat building techniques used for generation.
As previously described
