Arrival to Puerto Natales and make your own way to accommodation. Check in. During the day, most probable in the evening, you will have an important online briefing to tell you about the National Park, basic security, itineraries and all you need for your self guided trek.
Puerto Natales – Torres del Paine (Regular Bus) – Trekking Base Torres Lookout (7-8 hours, 13 km)
Find your own way to the bus station. Registration time at Rodoviario (Bus Station): 6.30 am.
Departure: 7.00 am. / Arrival to Portería Laguna Amarga: 9.00 am.
Transfer in a regular bus from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine. The journey lasts approximately 2 hours (112 Km.), passing through Cerro Castillo (a small border town situated along the route to the park and 54 Km. from Puerto Natales).
Upon arrival to Laguna Amarga, all travelers must get off of the bus and visit the CONAF Administration Office where they will follow all necessary paperwok to enter the park; the park entrance fee is included in the cost of the program. Having finished the paperwork, travelers will board the transfer vehicles which will take them to the sector surrounding the Cerro Paine Ranch and then on to The Welcome Centre of their first accommodation site.
First you need to check in at the Refugio Central to leave your heavy bags and keep the small rucksack with food and warm clothes. The next step includes an ascent for about 1,5 hours, with beautiful views of the surrounding lakes and Mount Almirante Nieto’s hanging glacier (2.670 m.a.s.l.), until arriving to Refugio El Chileno. Here you can recharge energies before initiating the climb. From here, and for about an hour, you will cross a millennium-old forest of lenga trees before arriving to the base of the “Morrena”. At this point, you will ascend for about 45 minutes in order to arrive to one of the site’s most magnificent areas, "Base Torres Lookout", from where the imposing Torre Sur (2.850 m a.s.l.), Torre Central (2.800 m a.s.l.), Torre Norte (2.600 m a.s.l.), Nido de Condor and Glacier Torre can all be appreciated.
Level of difficulty: High.
NIGHT 1 of W-Trek: Refugio Torre Central
W Trek in Torres del Paine National Park, Patagonia.
To read before traveling
You are planning to do probably the best trek that can be done in Patagonia.
South America and specially Patagonia offers natural wonders and open spaces, a genuine mecca for hikers and wanderers. But no other place can offer such stunning beauty, a weather that tests your limits, long trails to enjoy the walks and the 3rd World´s largest ice field (with it´s glaciers), just there, altogether. On top of that, a Trek organized in a way that almost all can do it. People that once were pioneers in this remote place only visited by hard mountain climbers saw it coming and organized a system of “Refugios” (huts or shelters) and campgrounds to be able to dive deep into the wild without needing to go back to civilization, that is, to Puerto Natales.
Almost all can do this trek, but there are things to consider to have a great time and to avoid setbacks. Some parts of the trek are rated as difficult but if you take out the weather factor, we can say they are intermediate. Nevertheless, no matter how fit you are, if you are walking 10 hours with strong wind against you, you may wonder why you have decided to be there instead of a in warm place looking at the mountains with a cup of coffee in our hands. So there are bright and dark moments for everyone! Almost like life itself, got to endure the difficult times to savor the beautiful ones!
So the treks are breathtaking, the landscapes are out of this world, some passages are tough, but in the end of each day you will have a warm place to be in, to meet friends, to eat properly and to review all you have lived!
When to go? Torres del Paine is opened all year round. There are guided options in winter but most visitors go in spring, summer and early fall. The self guided treks are offered between the 15th September and the 30th April. Maybe you can´t manage your dates but try to avoid January and February because the park tends to be full of hikers that do the W, the O, and the ones that go for the day. Also, December, January and February is warmer but is windy season as well. If you can, choose October, November, March and April.
Can I go? As told before, almost anyone can do the trek, but we can tell you who can´t: People with a heart condition, people with serious knees injuries, pregnant women, people with high blood pressure (to be checked with your doctor). If you wonder if you are going to be fit enough, you probably are. But try to walk longer distances than usual, with your trekking boots on, 2 or 3 weeks before beginning the Trek. It is not a bad idea to spend some days in places like El Chalten to do some self guided treks before going to Torres del Paine to be in good shape.
How to get there? You can arrive by bus to Puerto Natales from Punta Arenas and from El Calafate (from May to Aug buses may not cross from El Calafate to Puerto Natales due to the weather conditions). From Puerto Natales there are regular buses to the gates of the park at 7.30 am and at 2.30 pm (always check, these times can change). There are also flights arriving to Puerto Natales and more regular flights are expected to arrive soon.
What to bring? This is a question that always arises. Always try to bring the minimum weight because you will hate yourself if you take things you are not going to use. But at the same time be sure you are taking what you really need (total estimate: around 10% of your weight?). Depending on how fashionable you are, try not to bring more than two items of each cloth (2 sweaters, 2 pants, 2 pairs of shoes, etc)
So here is a list:
-Backpack: try to use a backpack of between 40 and 50 liters. If you don´t have a rain cover use a garbage plastic bag in the inside to protect your clothes from the rain. There are parts of the w trek where you can leave the heavy items in the Refugio and walk lighter so maybe it is a good idea to have a smaller backpack to take with you the lunch box, you water bottle, and items like sun glasses, gloves, lip balm, camera, an extra pair of socks etc.
-Trekking boots: don´t save your money in this item and bring good waterproof boots, preferably already tested/used. Better if they are high to protect your ankles and wear them tight, not loose, to avoid blisters. If yours are not water proof bring a second pair of shoes in case one pair gets soaked.
-Warm jacket: feather jacket / primaloft / karpa but have always a light raincoat to wear on top of it when needed.
-Pants: bring them light, warm and easy to dry. You will be tempted in summer to use shorts, you can do it but always bring long pants in case it is very windy and the little stones and twigs make you suffer. If you have water proof pants bring them along.
-General trekking items: due to the instability of weather, bring: UV protection sunglasses, a buff, warm inner layers and underwear, hat, gloves, good socks, leg warmers
-Trekking poles or canes: it is quite hard to find natural canes or sticks that fit you to use during the w trek, and it is a good help to have trekking poles (4 legged animals are more stable!) so try to bring your own from home, otherwise you will be trying to rent or buy in Puerto Natales with an over price
-To be in the Refugios: comfy light shoes, sock, pants, t-shirt and sleep wear, toiletries. Towel is given but you can always take yours.
-Don´t forget: camera or phone to take pictures (you can charge them in the Refugios), head lamp, sunscreen, lip balm, mosquito repellent, a swiss knife, a padlock if you want to keeo your backpack safe in the lockers in some Refugios, your own medication (no medicine to be found in the park, so please take yours – painkillers, antihistamine, etc ). A bottle for water is provided in the w trek program. Bring band aids or similar to prevent blisters.
-Tent – Sleeping bag: Very important, in the W Trek programs you don´t need to carry your own tent or sleeping bag, they will be provided by the refugios/camp site. So a lot of weight less!
*Very important: you may be traveling for longer in south America and you probably got more luggage than needed for the trek. It is a good idea to leave all you need in a locker to go lighter to the park and return. Normally hostels keep your luggage for you fro 1 USD a day and youj can also leave luggage at the bus station for 2 to 3 USD a day depending on the quantity.
Where will I be sleeping? You have 3 options of accommodation: Shared bed at a Refugio (like a hostel), shared Tent with your friend, or a tent for your own.
Refugio: this place is more than a shelter, is a space where you are going to sleep, take a bath, have breakfast, dinner and make friends. Rooms are to share like a hostel. Common areas are very cozy. And each Refugio uses a different system of heating so temperature will depend on each place. Full licensed bar available.
Good thing about Refugio: you will be under a roof.
Bad thing about the Refugio: sometimes fellow travelers snore and it may be difficult to sleep.
Tent: Tents are already organized with their sleeping bag and mattress, so you don´t need to carry tent, sleeping bag or mattress with you. Campsites are perfectly located and have their own bathrooms and showers and people who use the camping also have breakfast and dinner in the Refugios and use them as common areas. You may wonder if you are going to be cold at night but all items are made of very good quality and you won´t be cold.
Good thing about Tent: you will have your privacy if you are alone or with a partner.
Bad thing about the Tent: when windy and rainy, the noise will probably disturb you.
What I am going to eat? During the W Trek programs, your food is included. That means:
Breakfast: a very complete breakfast in the Refugio, no matter where you sleep.
Lunch box (a bag, to be honest): It contains a powerful sandwich or wrap, a small bag of dry fruits/nuts, a fruit (orange/apple/etc), a cereal bar and a chocolate.
Dinner: a very complete and even gourmet dinner. Entrée, main dish, bread and desert.
So for most people it is more than enough. If you like sweet stuff or you know you eat above average, you can take something extra with you, or you can buy at the Refugios. One of the wonderful things of the W Trek is not needing to carry your own food with you!
How much / How long will I be walking? Be prepared to endure long (but beautiful) walks. If you compare your Health app with the CONAF distances you will find out that you walk more than expected. Distances are about the following:
Day 2 from Sector Central to Base Torres and return, if you sleep 2 nights at central: 28 km or about 9 hours (If you sleep in Chileno it is 7 hours but the extra 2 hours will need to be done the following day)
Day 3 from Sector Central to Refugio Frances: 24 km or about 7-8 hours (if you are going from Chileno add one hour and a half or 2)
Day 4 from Refugio Frances to Paine Grande via mirador Frances and mirador Britanico: 20 km or about 8 to 9 hours.
Day 5 from Paine Grande to… ?. This Is the last day and you need to take the Catamaran to cross the lake so you are going to do a round trip as far as you can make it considering being ready to take the boat. Most people do the Grey lookout, to see the glacier. Some other walk further. You may walk 12-14 km or about 5-6 hours but it will depend on your decision.
Ref walking times: it will depend on the weather conditions (wind or rain), on your fitness and on your company. If you are in a small group or with friends, the slowest will set the pace.
What happens in case I can´t complete one sector? Some people wonder how to proceed if something happens. In the unlikely case that you get injured (knee or ankle, for example), you have to begin moving as much as you can in the direction of the closest Refugio. So if you have an accident 2 hours from the last Refugio, just go back, and tell people you find in the trails that you are not ok. They will pass the news to Conaf rangers or to W Trek guides. Also there are guides here and there so let them know what happened and they will help you. Again remember that there are no medicines to be found in the park so you have to take your own stock. From the Refugios there is always a way to carry people that can´t move, in van, car or boat. So the closest Refugio is your goal if you don´t feel well.
Some tips to enjoy your trek.
-Try to sleep well and depart early to be able to arrive before dark (in summer it gets dark very late, though) and to be able to be in the trails before everyone.
-It is best to avoid alcohol (it will be hard not to be tempted by a pisco sour or a chilean beer!)
-Manage your energy, this is not a sprint but a long distance race. And enjoy while walking finding your own pace, you won´t forget the landscape you will discover.
-Try to stretch when you arrive to each destination and you will notice that your fitness will increase with the days
-If you are alone try to meet other trekkers to be with other people. It is safer and more fun.
-Your enemies are: rain, wind and blisters. Not much to do against weather but take care of your feet, you will do maybe 20.000 steps per day or more. So comfortable and tight trekking boots/shoes, good socks (a pair extra dry socks always in your backpack). Bandaids or similar in case some areas begin to sore – touch your feet to prevent.
-Water is perfectly drinkable, you can just fill the bottle provided for the W trek in the several rivers. Keep hydrated.
-If you are planning to do Kayak or the Glacier Trek in Grey Glacier, you will need to add a 5th night to the W and sleep one night at Refugio Grey.
-If you think you are going to miss your family and friends, the Refugios have wifi, so you can be connected if you want. It has a cost (from 5 USD the hour, different plans). On a second thought, maybe it is great to enjoy an offline holiday and connect with your surroundings and fellow trekkers!
-Please take care with the white PDI paper you are getting in the Chilean border. Don’t lose it, it will be asked for when going out of Chile
-Some people like to arrive to Puerto Natales from El Calafate at 1 pm and from there just go to Torres del Paine to begin the trek. But in high season there are many people crossing the border and bus timetable will depend on that. If you arrive later than 2.30 pm you will miss the bus and your 1st W Trek day. It is better to arrive a day before and spend 1 night in Puerto Natales before doing the W Trek
Hoping that these words will help you when planning the W Trek, we honestly expect that you have an unforgettable experience in one of the most beautiful corners of our dear planet.
HI Travel Team
Trekking Refugio Central – Refugio Domo Frances (5 - 6 hours, 11 Km).
Recommended time to begin the trek: 9am
A moderate trek around the Macizo Paine, circling the base of Mount Almirante Nieto. From Refugio Torre Central, you will find a path that continues towards Refugio Los Cuernos. Along the journey you can take pictures in the incredible sites of Lake Nordenskjöld, the hanging glaciers and local flora, including the “ciruelillo” or “notro” trees, which delight in displaying their characteristic red flowers from December onwards.
After a four or five-hour walk, you will arrive to the area entitled Los Cuernos, which is considered by many as one of the most welcoming spots along the entire circuit. then you will walk further to reach your destination, Domo Frances.
Level of difficulty: Medium.
NIGHT 2 of W-Trek: Refugio/ Domo Frances.
Trekking to Francés Valley (11 - 12 hours, 25.3 Km).
Recommended time to begin the trek: 8am
The first hours are fairly light with views of Lake Nordenskjöld until arriving to “Camp Italiano”. The climb begins from the valley of River Francés and continues all the way up to the Francés Glacier Lookout (1.5 hrs). From there, the climb continues along the path until arriving to the area called “Británico” and the “Británico Lookout”, which offers one of the national park’s most impressive landscape views. The return trek follows the same path down to Refugio Domo Frances.
Level of difficulty: High.
NIGHT 3 of W-Trek: Refugio/ Domo Frances.
Refugio Frannces - Paine Grande - Trekking to Grey Glacier (8 - 9 hours, 22 Km).- Puerto Natales
Recommended time to begin the trek: 8am
First you need to reach Paine Grande, then ,after about one and a half hours you will reach the first lookout, where it’s possible to observe the glacier at a distance. (ONLY IF YOU HAVE TIME AND ENERGY) From there, you will follow a path that circles the west bank of Lake Grey. After about one and a half / two hours you will reach the main lookout with spectacular views of Grey Glacier, Cordón Olguín and the ice floes. The return journey follows the same path, arriving to the sector known as Pehoé. At the pier you will board a ferry and take a trip across Lake Pehoé, disembarking at the sector known as Pudeto from which point a transfer will be waiting to take customers back to Puerto Natales. You have to make your way from the bus station to your accommodation in Puerto Natales
Level of difficulty: Medium.
Ferry Itinerary PM / AM:
-Registration time at the pier: 6.00pm/ Departure: 6.30pm/ Approximate arrival time to Rodoviario Natales: 10pm.
-It is possible that due to physical and climate conditions you prefer to return on the first ferry. In this instance, the walk will only reach the first lookout (three hours approximate roundtrip). If taking advantage of this option, registration time at the pier is: 11am/ Departure: 11.30am/ Approximate arrival time to Rodoviario Natales: 4.30pm.
-It’s important that on this day you effectively calculate walking times in order to be on time for the ferry departures.
-When walking to the glacier, backpacks can be safely left at Paine Grande Lodge (a free service for travelers who are staying at this place).
Breakfast and check out. End of services
