CSC-Tanzania - CRATER, MIGRATION & BEACH - 11nts

Arumeru River Lodge is situated on a former coffee plantation surrounded by lush, magnificent gardens, only 30 minutes away from the airport and the city of Arusha. The lodge features an inviting lounge, large terraces with a wonderful view of Kilimanjaro and Mount Meru. The 31 chalets, junior suites and family rooms offer a touch of African elegance and are located in individual bungalows spread across the large tropical estate. Guests can visit Arusha National Park or explore the nearby rain-forest on one of the exciting half day excursions or relax at the large solar heated swimming pool watching the Dikdik antelope in the garden. Delicious african and international dishes are served in the Migration Restaurant and the open fire place in the cosy lounge invites guests to step in for a drink.

In the quiet south-east of Tarangire National Park, beside Silale and Lormakau marshes, Oliver's Camp is ...

... a lovely tented camp set on a low, sandy ridge. Open from June until the end of March, it is particularly good for wildlife in the height of the dry season, when the marshes attract huge herds of buffalo, zebra and wildebeest. It originally started off as a temporary camp, but was made permanent in 2008.

Oliver's Camp is the sister camp to Olakira, Dunia and Sayari, and offers the same good guiding and a friendly bush experience.

The main area at Oliver's is an open-sided two-storey, wood and thatch structure which looks out into the surrounding bush and is furnished with comfortable leather armchairs, reclaimed dhow-wood tables and campaign furniture. We particularly enjoyed the upper storey, complete with its deck giving you an even better vista from where to sit and keep a look out for passing game. This all comes together to create a very traditional safari camp, which is stylish but still very authentic. Dining is communal, with everyone seated at one long table, so there is a very sociable and friendly atmosphere to the camp.

In front of the mess tent is a firepit, surrounded by directors' chairs, where guests gather before and after dinner to chat about the day and listen to the sounds of the bush. Down from the main area, in a secluded, shady spot by a baobab, is a small deck used for private dinners. Further down the slope is a large sundowner and breakfast deck looking across the Tarangire River valley.

Oliver's Camp has ten large tented rooms raised up on wooden platforms, and suspended under thatch. The interiors are rustic but tasteful and practical: chunky furniture made from the timber of former dhows, lampshades adorned with Masaai beads, leather-bound books, wrought iron bedside tables, solar-powered lights and an open canvas wardrobe. Above each bed is a ceiling fan to keep you cool during the heat of the day. In front of each tent are two sunloungers on the deck where you can relax, read, or perhaps sit and birdwatch with a pair of binoculars.

There is one special honeymoon tent (#2), with a double-headed shower, and a family tent (#9) that includes an extension with twin beds and a second toilet and basin. Two triple tents can also be made up if required giving the camp a maximum capacity of 25 people.

UK style three pin sockets allow you to charge your electricals, and each tent also has mosquito spray, a radio to contact the office, a torch and a digital safe.

The en-suite bathroom is at the far end of the tent, with no partition. You'll find a single wash basin set on a heavy wooden table, some space to store your luggage and a flush toilet. A door leads out to an open-air rainfall shower which, although designed to look like a bucket shower, is fully plumbed, so there is plenty of hot water. The shower is partially enclosed by a wooden fence, allowing you to shower in privacy while admiring the sunset.

Oliver's has a range of activities on offer. The camp is located in a special wilderness area where walking and fly-camping are allowed, usually on the plains or in the sand river. There are resident guides who can take you out on shared activities, and both walks and game drives are available. If you're making use of the camp's vehicles and guides then walking is included in the cost, but night drives remain an extra cost. The camp has recently bought night-vision goggles for their night drives, to add an extra element of excitement.

Alternatively, you can opt to arrive with your own private vehicle and guide. In this case, walks and night drives are at an extra cost; when we were last there in June 2018 walking safaris cost approximately $75 per person whilst night drives cost approximately $110 per person. The minimum age for walking is 12.

You can also arrange to do a hot-air balloon safari over Tarangire National Park from Oliver's. Balloons take off from a launch site near Boundary Hill, and usually drift north. You'll need to plan for a 04:30 departure from camp. Ask us to help plan this into your stay.

Conservation Safari Company recommends Olivers as one of the best camps in Tarangire, in a prime location within one of our favourite parks - especially for elephants. Tried and tested, always great hospitality, food and guiding.

Rates include Full board accommodation, all drinks (except champagne, cellar wines, premium brand spirits), laundry service, scheduled open vehicle game drives, guided walking safaris, night game drives, transfers to/from Kuro airstrip.

We generally include park fees and tourism/conservation levies in our quotes so there are no additional fees payable.

The Highlands at Ngorongoro opened in 2016 and is one of the newest camps in the area, located about 45 minutes' drive north of the Ngorongoro Crater. It lies far from other camps in a forested area near the Olmoti Volcano. The camp is unique in design – you'll struggle to find anywhere else like this in East Africa!

We visited The Highlands for the first time in November 2016. As it is the sister camp to Dunia Camp, Sayari Camp, Oliver's Camp and Olakira, amongst others, we expected the excellent standards set by these camps to be evident at The Highlands – we were not disappointed! Members of the team have been back multiple times since, most recently visiting in February 2018. 

Views from The Highlands are beautiful, taking in both the sunrise and the sunset, and the sweeping landscape of the surrounding area, for which the lodge is named. When the clouds clear, it is possible to see the Gol Mountains to the north west, the vast plains of the Serengeti, and the nearby Empakaai and Olmoti Craters. There are occasional sightings of buffalo, zebra, porcupine and even elephant from camp. 

The camp is made up of a series of unusual domed tents, which are said to be inspired by the houses in Maasai bomas, but appear quite futuristic from the outside. Three communal tents – a lounge area, bar and dining room – are set at different heights and linked by wooden walkways. These are similar in structure, with high quilted 'ceilings' housing vents and fans and huge clear sections that serve as floor-to-ceiling windows. The focal point of the lounge, the largest dome, is a wood-burning stove, and this is complemented by a curved wooden sofa. Another wood burner heats the wood-panelled bar tent, where there's a selection of stylish seating and lighting. Fur and sheepskin throws, and checked cushions give a luxuriously cosy and homely feel. The dining tent, similarly panelled and heated, has a number of heavy wooden tables where meals are generally taken communally, but private tables can be arranged. There is a lovely veranda where breakfast and lunch can be served in warm weather.

The Highlands has eight raised bedroom dome tents, rather igloo-like in style, and dotted down the hillside among the trees. Along with three standard tents, there are three with mezzanine floors, one family suite and one honeymoon suite. Each has its own deck encircling the dome, offering private views and excellent opportunities to observe the neighbouring birdlife. 

The small winding paths that access the tents can be steep in places, and some of the tents are quite a walk from the main area, a walk that is exacerbated by the altitude. Honeymooners may appreciate the two tents that are furthest from the main area, or could take up residence in the designated honeymoon suite. Larger than the other tents, this also has a hot tub on the veranda with sweeping views.

All the bedrooms have incredibly comfortable king-size beds, sheep skin covered wicker chairs by a wood burner, and cow-hide rugs on the floors. Each has a large vinyl window, offering night-time views of the stars and storms from the comfort of the bed. Luxurious soft furnishings, dramatic black-and-white Maasai portraiture on the walls and modern lighting create an extremely stylish aesthetic in an already striking structure.

Tents with a mezzanine floor also have two single, simple floor beds, accessed by a wooden ladder, so unsuitable for very young children for safety reasons. The family suite helps here, with a standard en-suite double tent connected to a smaller twin dome with its own bathroom. Note that there is no wood burner in the small dome for safety reasons, so extra hot water bottles are provided. Families could also use the two tents that are the closest together. 

The wood-panelled en-suite bathrooms are evocative of a Scandinavian sauna – quite unusual for a safari camp! Kitted out with double sinks, a separate flushing toilet and a vast double shower, they have 24-hour hot water – though this can sometimes take a few minutes to arrive. Plenty of shelving is provided, as well as a safe, laundry basket, toiletries and robes in a Maasai-style material – but no hairdryer; the power supply is not sufficiently strong at present.

Due to The Highlands' location and altitude, low temperatures are an issue, particularly in the early mornings, and rainfall is quite frequent. The wood burner, which is lit whilst guests are having dinner, warms each tent in the evenings. Hot-water bottles are placed in the beds and extra blankets are supplied in a leather chest, meaning that the tents can get very warm and cosy. In the mornings, however, it can feel very cold once the fire has gone out, although fortunately very little time is spent here then. In case of rain, wellington boots and umbrellas are supplied to each tent.

There are currently only USB charging points in the rooms with main plugs in the lounge. Unusually, wifi is available in the tents but not in the communal areas, which we really like as it encourages a more social atmosphere. 

The drive to the floor of the Ngorongoro Crater from The Highlands takes about an hour, running through beautiful valleys, and passing many Maasai villages along the way. Activities at the camp include game drives in the crater, but it is also ideally located for walking – a great way to break up days in a safari vehicle. We particularly recommend the guided hikes at the beautiful Olmoti and Empakaai Craters. Olmoti, about an hour's drive away, is a relatively easy walk, taking approximately 20 minutes to descend, then around 45 minutes to ascend. Empakaai, an hour-and-a-half's drive away, requires a good level of fitness: it takes about 40 minutes to go down and an hour to return. 

As The Highlands has strong links with a local Maasai village, providing financial support to the school and conservation education for the children, guests are invited to visit the village and spend time with the children, which can be very rewarding.

Our view

The big draws of The Highlands are its location – far from other camps in the area and with beautiful views – and the opportunity to do some great walks and cultural activities, all from a stunning property with good food, service and guiding. Although this not one of the closest options for the Ngorongoro Crater, the drive there is beautifully scenic. If you can cope with a chilly start to the day, and are not looking for a 'classic safari' camp, we think The Highlands could be an inspired choice

Ubuntu Migration Camp moves with the migrating herds of wildebeest. From mid-June to end-October, the camp is located in the northern Serengeti. With 10 spacious tents, each with full en suite facilities, Ubuntu offers guests the opportunity to uncover the more fascinating and unexplored corners of the Serengeti.

Matemwe Lodge (formerly Matemwe Bungalows) has always been a long-standing favourite with our travellers . It’s situated on the northern edge of Matemwe village, and has a lovely position on a small outcrop of coral rock. The newly landscaped gardens are dotted with frangipani and bougainvillea trees giving them a lush tropical feel with plenty of colour. 

The husband and wife management team at Matemewe Lodge have a keen eye for detail - and when I was last there in 2019 impressed me with their enthusiasm and natural flair, and their commitment to their local community, where most of the staff live and whose own enthusiasm and hard work give the lodge its comfortable, welcoming atmosphere.

At Matemwe there are 12 whitewashed stone bungalows with high thatched roofs, all of them sea-facing, and all of them ranged along the low coral cliff to the north of the main central parts of the lodge directly above the sea. Rooms #1 to #6 have a split-level mezzanine floor with a second double bed - a good option for families or triples. These rooms also have a sunken cushioned baraza (the traditional, Swahili meeting place), where you can relax and enjoy the sea view through the corner shutters. The older rooms #7 to #12 are single-level rooms, and two of them (#9 and #10) have private plunge pools; these feel both secluded and romantic, and have beautiful views out towards Mnemba Island. Rooms #7 to #12 are also a little more private, and perfect for honeymooners. 

All Matemwe Lodge's rooms are spacious and comfortable, with interesting things dotted around such as a baoboard (the traditional Zanzibari game of calculation) and colourful throws over the beds. The older rooms have a double sofa and very comfortable double hammock on the veranda – great spots to relax in the heat of the afternoon. 

The bathrooms in the 6 split-level newer bungalows are very spacious, with a flush toilet, twin sinks and a large stone bath and shower. In the older rooms the bathrooms have just one sink but also a huge romantic bath. Both have toiletries and candles as lovely finishing touches. 

All rooms have a phone and 24 hour room service, and useful items such as bathrobes, torches, fans, mosquito repellant and umbrellas. There is no air-conditioning in the rooms, however with a fresh sea breeze throughout the year guests typically find that this is not needed.

The communal areas at Matemwe Lodge have a very relaxed feel to them. Turn right from the reception, past the giant chess board (with prawns for pawns) to get to the incredible stretch of white beach dotted with a few sunloungers. There is a watersports centre here, where you can get equipment for reef walks, snorkeling and kayaking. Trips can also be arranged to the nearby Mnemba Island for diving and snorkeling. Matemwe Lodge has a number of good quality bikes at the reception area, and for a small fee you can hire these for a morning allowing you to easily cycle in to the local village or along the coastline.

Matemwe also has strong links with the local village and walks to the village or fishing trips with local fishermen can be arranged. These help to provide an insight in to the local community; you can meet with your guides family and discover how everyday life is lived. You can also visit the local fish market, and pick up some fresh fish, which can then be cooked up for your lunch.

Matemwe Lodge has two swimming pools - one is an infinity pool with views across to Mnemba island. This is a great spot for sun worshippers to relax on the comfortable loungers. From this pool, a waterfall trickles down to a second pool below. This is perfect for when the heat gets a bit much as there is plenty of shade and more loungers.

The bar by the lower pool is made from an old dhow, set off by some unlikely décor - the huge skull of a young sperm whale. A variety of drinks and snacks are served here during the day, and it's a good spot for relaxing with a few drinks in the evening. 

Next to the pool and slightly above the bar, is the Sea and Spice Spa, which offers a range of treatments such as pedicures, facials and massages; each guest can expect a complimentary welcome massage! Couples especially will enjoy the open-fronted double massage room with a view. 

Dining at Matemwe Lodge takes place in the open-sided restaurant situated just along from the swimming pool, with great views over the turquoise ocean. Tables can either be inside, or outside on the smart wooden decking. There's a small bar for drinks and a buffet counter that is used for breakfasts and lunches. 

Activities at Matemwe revolve around lots of watersports options, and a free reef walk is included in every stay; this is a fantastic opportunity to discover the marine life residing in the shallow sea around the east coast. The lodge watersports centre, is in a hut on the beach just two minutes' walk from the dining room, and staffed by a friendly team of 'poacher-turned-gamekeeper' snorkelling and reef guides and watersports teachers. If you're here in Februrary or March you may also be able to witness turtles hatching from their beach nests about 5km up the coast: Matemwe Lodge is closely involved in the conservation of two endangered (actually they are all endangered) species, the green turtle and the more rarely seen hawksbill.

Matemwe Lodge has sound eco-credentials. The restaurant sources as much local produce for the restaurant as possible, including fresh fish caught just off the coast. The lodge is also involved in a local recycling scheme, and much of the waste is recycled and re-used. 

Just behind the watersports hut, Matemwe Beach House is another part of the Matemwe Lodge set-up, and booked in its entirety. The beach house sleeps a maximum of six people in 3 bedrooms – a twin non-air-conditioned room upstairs and two air-conditioned doubles downstairs. The house is entered through a carved wooden door, leading to the veranda and a small pool. Inside is a dining room and lounge area, which lead through to the bedrooms. The beach house has a separate kitchen with its own chef and butler, but guests can eat at the main lodge if they prefer.

Our view

Matemwe Lodge is a relaxed and friendly beach lodge which offers great service and a lovely atmosphere. Water sports are great and it has the best access to Mnemba island for snorkeling and diving.

Our quotes include all meals and drinks, select water activities