Appointment with Wonky Tusk’s Family; A Safari to the Elephants of Zambia

Forty or so years ago nobody was permitted to enter a game park in Africa unless they were in a fully enclosed vehicle. Walking safaris were unheard of, and the first instances of both were pioneered in Zambia by the late Norman Carr. Others were quick to follow, and now the open vehicle concept is commonplace, and for many, it’s the way to go, particularly if time is limited.

An open vehicle offers all-around views, and this elevated viewpoint helps considerably when searching far afield for wildlife. It also means you can move reasonably quickly to new sites, especially if, for example, lions sighted in another location are reported over the onboard radio. A vehicle trip is often considered as a supplement to a boat trip and vice versa.

Our vehicles are maintained as new and offer comfort and security and the ability to take you to places where lesser vehicles would founder. They are purpose-built and equipped with both sunshade roofs and warm ponchos for late trips back to the lodge in the evenings. In addition, they have hand-held spotlights for night viewing. Night drives can be extremely exciting when the nocturnal creatures such as leopards, civets, porcupines, genets and aardvarks, to mention but a few, come out to hunt and forage for food.

Our game viewing trips by vehicle usually involve a break at an appropriate point for drinks and snacks. Here you can disembark, stretch your legs and enjoy the ambience and sounds so often missed while travelling. This is usually a good time to chat with your guide and ask all the questions about the bush that have accumulated on the drive. It’s also an excellent time to let creatures come to you, which can often happen if you remain relatively quiet, close to the vehicle and non-threatening.

A special night trip to look for leopard is not an unusual request. At Royal, we always ensure you are spoiled for choice in activities. You only have to ask; flexibility is the backbone of our approach.

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A Royal canoe trip is something that shouldn’t be missed. You will first enjoy a boat trip down-river to where the canoes await you, each one carrying one or two passengers and a guide. Previous canoeing experience is not a pre-requisite while an ability to sit still helps considerably!

The trip usually involves about two or three hours paddling, being paddled or just drifting downstream on an offshoot from the main Zambezi which has formed a relatively narrow channel around what is effectively a large island. Most of the channel is reasonably shallow affording a view from water level over the lower banks of pristine bush and grassy flood plains with heavier bush as a close backdrop.

The canoeing experience involves peace and tranquillity punctuated by animal magic in all its forms. Everyone keeps a wary eye open for crocs and hippos while the guides know how to avoid “surprising” them. Game viewing from water level is entirely different and quite wonderful. The wildlife don’t seem to care about these floating objects and go about their business quite uninterrupted. The higher river banks provide burrow type nesting sites for bee-eaters and kingfishers in abundance.

Our recommendation is for you to partake in this activity in the afternoon when the sun is behind you and the light assists photography. Lions have been seen stalking and killing an impala. Leopard have been spotted on a branch watching the world go by. Elephant cross the water to and from the island where the vegetation provides plentiful browsing. Cape buffalo graze on the floodplains on both banks.

At the end of the trip refreshments of your choice await you on the river bank at the confluence with the main river, providing an unforgettable blend of action and serenity and an experience for which many return.

A further option is to make your return trip by vehicle when you enjoy a game viewing drive through the park back to the Lodge. Spotlights are provided to help you see the action in the darkness as the nocturnal creatures set out on the hunt for prey.

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Fishing on the Lower Zambezi offers one of the most exceptional freshwater angling experiences in the world, the highlight being the presence of the world’s premier game fish, the Tiger Fish. The variety in the Zambezi, Hydrocynus vittatus, can grow up to 10 -12 Kg and is a superb fighter.

The best time for Tiger Fish is during our hot months of September to November. Expert resident guides take fishing excursions on new, fully-fitted aluminium boats. For guests who are new to fishing or fly-fishing, our guides provide expert instruction and assistance.

There are plenty of bream and chessa to catch or use as bait, as well as many varieties of catfish. You will certainly have a fight on your hands if you hook a Vundu (Bagrus Catfish), which can grow up to almost 100 lbs! Other species of interest are the Three Spot Bream, Red Breasted Bream, Nile Bream, Chessa, Nkupi, Bottlenose and the Cornish Jack. The waters of the Lower Zambezi are free from netting and therefore are your best bet for lots of big fish. We enforce a strict catch & release policy at Royal.

Guides, fuel and tackle are provided. However, we recommend that serious sport fishermen/woman bring their own gear – see below for suggestions. Medium-heavy action 20lb spinning or baitcasting rods/reels work best. Wire leader is essential, as are good quality sharp hooks attached to bright, shiny spinners and spoons.

Our experienced guides will take you to all the best fishing spots and guide you through the whole process. Whether you are a complete beginner or a professional angler we can guarantee that catching one of these mighty fish is an experience you will never forget!

Fishing Tackle:

- Bait-casting rods (2) 6ft MH action
- Spinning rods (2) 6ft MH action
- NOTE – Casting or spinning rods, depending on your personal preference. Casting rods have been historically easier to cast and troll the large plugs, spinners and spoons needed to tempt tigerfish. Consider 2 or 3 piece travel rods for easy carry-on packing as opposed to cumbersome, 7 foot rod tubes.
- Casting or spinning reels + spare: Should possess smooth drags and have capacity to handle 125 yards of 14-20lb abrasion resistant line.
- Extra line (changing line is often necessary)
- 30-40lb wire test leaders (18-24 inches)

Fishing tackle suggested for fly fishing:

- Fly rods (2) from 8wt to 10wt
- Weight forward floating line
- 300 and 400 sinking fly lines
- Tippets 20lb and per your liking
- Wire Leaders 30-40lbs
- Spare backing, spare lines, extra leaders
- Flies (at least 30): Clouser deep minnow, Lefty’s Deceivers, other Epoxy or weighted head baitfish pattern flies in the 2 to 4 inch range on 2/0 hooks in the following colours: Silver, silver & red, black & silver, orange, white, chartreuse, Yellow. Also add flashabou or similar as attractor to most flies.

Due to catch and release policies we strongly recommend use of circle hooks.

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Famous Tiger Fish Credit: Karen Lowe

Tiger Fishing Credit: Andy Lowe

Sunset cast Credit: Andy Lowe

Famous Tiger Fish Credit: Lauren

Epic Tiger Credit: Lauren

The Royal Zambezi Bush Spa draws its inspiration from the natural beauty surrounding the lodge and is one of Zambia’s only bush spa’s. Its minimalist design exudes an air of complete balance, peace and tranquillity offering the ultimate refuge to restore the mind, body and spirit.

We pride ourselves on our attentive qualified therapist who is at hand to provide you with a wide variety of massages and a host of other therapeutic, beauty and skin care treatments. Many of these use local indigenous ingredients from the African bush further emphasising its beauty and enchantment. The spa is also the Zambian flagship of the famous and world-leading Dermalogica brand of skin care products.

Our spa, proudly positioned on a high vantage point, offers stunning views over the Zambezi River. The inviting aroma of burning scented candles fills the air from the open-air massage area or private treatment room. A beautifully appointed lounge area invites you to relax and unwind while taking in the remarkable sights and sounds of the resident flora and fauna.

With snorting hippos in the river and the sharp cries of the African Fish Eagle overhead to lull you into relaxation, what more could you ask for during a soothing massage in our award-winning Bush Spa?

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Royal Bush Spa Credit: Shaun Mckinn

Traditional Zambian Ukuchina Massage Credit: Andy Lowe

Swedish Massage Credit: Andy Lowe

Spa with a view Credit: Shaun Mckinn

Indian Head Massage Credit: Stevie Mann

Royal Bush Spa Credit: Stevie Mann

Royal Bush Spa Credit: Stevie Mann

A cruise in one of our outboard powered boats will be a rewarding experience any time from early morning to evening. The choice is yours, and our guides will make the appropriate recommendation depending on prevailing conditions. Photographers may not want the sun in their eyes or backlit waters.

There’s always something happening on the river, and the breeze out there is delightfully refreshing, particularly on a bright, cloudless sunny day. The river is continually changing and varies in width, speed and depth, perpetuating the ill-defined Zambia border which follows the original river course. Wildlife knows no such boundaries, and downstream there are national parks on both sides.

There is a rich variety of birdlife on its banks, reedbeds, backwaters and sandy shores mainly when the Palearctic migrants are around. You will see the ubiquitous fish eagle or an osprey often taking larger fish from the river, and there are myriad kingfishers of all shapes, colours and sizes who are partial to the smaller ones. With a vast variety of waders, storks and herons it’s a twitcher’s paradise with a host of interesting distractions.

One is always on the lookout for crocodiles, and the boatman or guide will make sure you can get that close-up of the big one before it enters the water. The hippos, of course, are always around, and your guide will know just how close you can safely go. They will always seek the deepest water, so it’s wise not to be blocking their way!

Recently there have been sightings of a cape clawless otter which we hope is managing the crayfish population that we understand are possibly on the increase. The Malawi Blue Crab has recently been seen in the water. There is often something new to consider, and our guides’ and boatmen’s enthusiasm is infectious.

All the large mammals come to the river to drink and in the case of elephants to frolic in the water. They let you come close enough to get some amusing pictures of their antics. You will often see lion, buffalo, kudu, bushbuck, waterbuck and many other larger animals on the river bank as, unlike the elephant, they have a healthy respect for crocodiles.

Cruises are well stocked with refreshments of your choice, and it’s pleasant to enjoy a sundowner on a sandy island with elephant nearby. Perhaps have a game of boule before returning to the lodge, using the spotlight to search for those bright eyes in the water and the riverbank.

For additional interest, a trip further upriver will allow you to see the riverside villagers happily fishing, bathing and washing their clothes in the river in the same way as they have for centuries. They seem to know when the crocodiles are around!

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People argue that the best way to see the bush is to walk in it. In many ways, we feel they are correct as this intimate form of mixing with nature permits a close study of the various plants, animals, spoor, lairs, burrows, nests and other ground level features. All the sounds and scents are there, unsullied and there’s time to study everything properly without having to move on.

In most instances, our guides have been born and raised in the bush, and you will be astonished at their ability to spot the abnormal. You will also be amazed at how quickly you adapt to the surroundings and start to notice unusual movements, colours, and so forth. Real bushcraft takes time to develop and whether you’ve “been here before” or it’s your first time in Africa there will be something of interest. For some, it’s the sounds that are the most interesting and it’s exciting to track down that tiny Pearl Spotted Owlet just from its call. Is that a hippo or a lion calling? Is that hyena far away?

Snakes can sometimes be found, but success requires some fairly specialist experience. There are plenty around, but contrary to popular belief they don’t spend their time attacking people! They tend to be shy and will often remain completely unmoving making them difficult to see. Look for them sunning themselves on branches or rocks, perhaps dangling motionless from a branch awaiting a careless bird passing by.

A good snake sighting is often one of the highlights of a walking safari, and a live study and understanding of their behaviour will cure even the most acute ophidiophobia.

Your guide will be accompanied by an armed scout and the perceived ‘dangers’ will soon be forgotten as you blend into the wilderness and become part of it. Clothing in natural colours is best mainly when stalking or avoiding that elusive antelope or even lion, buffalo or elephant and of course comfortable shoes are essential. A few hours walking in the bush soon creates an appetite for that delicious brunch, lunch or a cold beer!

Hiking

Please note: Due to the hot climate during summer months in the Lower Zambezi, this is a seasonal activity and only on offer from May-August each year.

The backdrop to Lower Zambezi National Park and indeed our Lodge is an impressive mountainous escarpment with many peaks and a variety of walks and climbs, some of which will put you to the test and others which will provide a mild cardiac stimulus. The choice is yours, and those who are interested should discuss their preferences with the guides.

The warm weather makes for a trip which doesn’t involve heavy clothing, and the primary consideration is comfortable shoes and clothing while not forgetting water, cameras and binoculars. Porters can be provided to help carry your kit when necessary.

The trip will first take you through the riverine bush and as you move higher the vegetation changes, then thins out, and the most fantastic panoramic view of the Zambezi valley emerges. You begin to imagine how the first explorers must have felt.

An armed scout accompanies you and of course one of our experienced guides who will point out all sorts of interesting features in addition to the wild animals and birds encountered. That said the prime aim of reaching the top or at least some way up is not forgotten.

As your party is always in radio contact with the Lodge, vehicles can be arranged to speed up your return with some mobile game viewing thrown in. It’s entirely up to you. On returning to camp a swim in the infinity pool, immersion in your private plunge pool or a cold beer will be well-earned.

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Walking Safari Credit: Andy Lowe

Walking Safari Credit: Andy Lowe

Walking Safari Credit: Stevie Mann

Walking Safari Credit: Stevie Mann

Walking Safari Credit: Stevie Mann

Walking Safari Credit: Stevie Mann

Walking Safari Credit: Stevie Mann

Walking Safari Credit: Stevie Mann

Walking Safari Credit: Stevie Mann

Walking Safari Credit: Stevie Mann

Walking Safari Credit: Stevie Mann

The “Do Nothing at All” option, abbreviated to DNA, is a Royal special and is often a total misnomer as the goings-on in a quiet camp often leave you breathless. The concept of DNA is essentially to stay in camp, spend time relaxing by the main pool or bar, chatting to other folk on the deck, browsing through the many reference books in the lounge or staying in your suite simply D’g NA.

However, it’s only when you find yourself nose to trunk with a bull elephant while lying on your day-bed or a mum and her calf munching close to your plunge pool that you realise what “relaxation” can entail! These visitors can’t read a “Do Not Disturb” sign and they don’t know what “shoo” means! It’s their place too and always has been so remembering to look right and left before leaving your suite!

The ongoing distractions from the river create unique photo opportunities in camp and all to a background chorus of the multitude of birds, monkeys and baboons around the camp, mainly when it’s quiet. The Lodge area is a bird watcher’s delight because of the variety of habitats and cover available, especially the large shade trees which shelter the complex. Never a dull moment!

If you want to relax then all is not lost – the Royal Bush Spa is, of course, another form of DNA, as is the exercise machine by the pool, the pool itself or merely catching up with the news at home with our wireless internet service, maintained by boosters throughout the camp.

Of course, our waiters are always on hand to keep you well supplied with refreshments at all times, and they can be contacted via the service telephone in your suite.

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The Lower Zambezi National Park is an IBA (Important Bird Area) and therefore of global conservation significance. Over 300 species of birds are found here. The African fish eagle, Zambia’s national bird, is commonly seen and heard.

For birding enthusiasts, you need to be here for those birding sensations – the African Pitta and Narina Trogon. The African Pitta arrives for the summer rains Dec – Jan, and we offer you the advantage of spotting them as a result of the lodge staying open year-round. These phenomenal birds are extremely rare, but at Royal Zambezi Lodge we have been lucky enough to see them every year since 2016.

The Narina Trogon also spotted during the early rainy season, is a beautiful species seen here waiting, perched on a branch looking for a wide range of insect prey.

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Royal Zambezi Lodge prides itself on serving the highest level of cuisine crafted using locally sourced ingredients and will happily tailor menus to various dietary requirements. To ensure you can enjoy your holiday at your pace, we offer flexibility in meal times, and you will be seated at a private table, so there is no rush.

Enjoy a delicious breakfast overlooking the Lower Zambezi River, with the option of continental or a full cooked breakfast to get you ready for the day ahead. Our team of expert chefs will prepare dishes to order or whizz up a healthy smoothie.

Lunch can either be taken under the veranda at the lodge or arranged so that it will not interrupt a good day’s fishing or game drive. With the option of a gourmet picnic lunch or a full outdoor buffet in the National Park, complete with white linen tableware, the concept of outdoor dining takes on a whole new dimension.

Tea will be served in the afternoon before you head out for an activity, and you will be able to relax on the comfy sofas in the lounge with a cup of tea or ice coffee accompanied by freshly baked confectionery.

Dinner is served at private tables under the stars, or by a roaring fire on a cooler night. Alternatively, you may relax in your suite and have dinner brought to your private deck. To celebrate special occasions, you may enjoy drinks by a campfire or candlelit private dinner or a chance to dine in the wilderness.

Would you like to treat a loved one by organising a surprise before your arrival at Royal? Meet Kelvin, our Surprise Supervisor, whose job is solely to focus on planning surprises for our guest to enjoy. Get in touch and start planning that surprise!

Alternatively, look at our culinary add-on options in our PACKAGES section on our website for any of you “foodies” wanting to add a unique element to your African safari adventure.

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Floating Lunch Credit: Stevie Mann

Lunch with a view Credit: Anthony Grote

Lunch on a sandbank Credit: Stevie Mann

Zambezi Lunch Credit: Stevie Mann

Coffee with a view Credit: Stevie Mann

River Lunch Credit: Stevie Mann

Cuisine with a view Credit: Stevie Mann

Chef Credit: Stevie Mann