Greystoke Mahale | Mahale National Park
There are few places left on earth that might rightfully be called Eden, and the Mahale Mountains, on the edge of Lake Tanganyika in western Tanzania, is one of them. Life at Mahale is easy in this barefoot paradise. Greystoke Mahale sits on a pristine, white sandy beach overlooking the turquoise water of Lake Tanganyika, with the forested slopes of the 8000 ft Mahale Mountains rising behind.
The main mess is the only structure on the beach and it's the focal point of camp. Here is where you can look out over the lake to the mountains of the Congo in the haze beyond.
The National Park is famous for the chimpanzees that can be visited in the mountains; clients are allowed to spend 1 hour a day with the chimps. Depending on the season the chimps feed at different altitudes on the mountains, so at certain times of year the days can be quite long to reach the chimps. People come here to visit the chimpanzees, but by all means this is not the only activity you can do, the beautiful lake is great for exploring by Kayak, or following streams up into the hills to hidden waterfalls. The environment boasts excellent bird life and its well worth taking a walk with a guide through the network of jungle tracks. The lake is incredible for swimming as well as snorkelling.
Your days can start in the main area, eating breakfast whilst waiting to hear news of the chimps and deciding what to do. Evenings end with sundowners on the rocks of the headland, where drinks are served around the lamp-lit bar whilst the mountains, rising behind camp, disappear into the darkness.
THE BANDAS: All are open-fronted, with heavy canvas curtains you can pull across if you choose. Made of old dhow wood, not one is the same, but all have a dressing room behind and then a short boardwalk to the bathroom with flush toilet, strong showers and hot and cold water on demand. There's a "chill-out" deck upstairs, accessible by a rather clever canoe-ladder around the side of the banda. This is the place to while away a long afternoon with a glass of wine and a good book.
HIGHLIGHTS: The magical forest of the Mahale Mountains and the chimps! Along with many other animals that include other primates, bushbuck, bush pig, leopard and a multitude of butterflies and amazing birds. Dinner on the beach under the stars and sundowners on the dhow; kayaking and fishing in the clear waters of the lake. This lodge doesn't drip with luxury [not surprisingly considering its remote location] but is super stylish and an exceptional experience.
Your Stay
3 Nights
Fully Inclusive - Bed, All Meals, Fees and Activities
Your Rooms
1x Twin Room
Fast Facts
5 Star
Lodge
Spoken Languages: English, Swahili
No. Rooms: 7
Special Interests: Adventure, Beach / Coastal, Birding, Fishing, Flora, Hiking, Nature, Relaxation, Star Gazing, Wildlife
Greystoke thatched rooms
The seven rooms at Greystoke are entirely in-keeping with the setting. When Roland Purcell established his camp here, he was conscious of the responsibility of ensuring a light footprint. Built of thatch and salvaged dhow wood, each of the open-fronted rooms is tucked into the treeline, almost invisible to the passing fishermen in their small canoes. The rooms all have verandahs and an upstairs chill-out lounge with views across the white sand to the vastness of Lake Tanganyika.
The rooms are open-fronted with great canvas drapes which can be closed in the event of a storm. The twin or double beds nestle beneath a canopied net. A dressing area leads on to an en-suite bathroom. There's running water here, with a boiler that is lit on request to preserve energy, and a flush loo. The rich foliage that gives the camp such character can be enjoyed while you are showering in privacy.
Property Facilities
24-hour Security, Bar, Battery Charging Facilities, Communal Dining, Eco Friendly, Laundry Service (Complimentary), Library
Room Facilities
Balcony / Deck, En-Suite, Laundry Service (Complimentary), Lounge Area, Mosquito Nets, Pure Cotton Linen, Shower, Verandah
Activities on Site
Bird Watching, Boating, Catch-and-release Fishing, Fishing, Game Viewing, Kayaking, Walks (Guided)
Nomad share the mountains and the lake with so many animals, but it's the chimps that inspire; it's hard not to compare their daily lives, their movements, feeding, squabbling, foraging and grooming, with our own. Time spent with them is time away from everything else that is ordinary. The Greystoke guides have watched, over the years, as families have grown, alpha males have come and gone, bonds and friendships have been created and then broken, and then created again. They are not so different from us.
After tracking them, for an hour or two, maybe more, only aware of the sounds they are making ahead of you, you find them; suddenly they are everywhere. You sit quietly on the forest floor and take a deep breath, this is what it's all about. For the next hour it's as if you scarcely breathe, so wrapped up are you in watching them go about their daily life. You become aware of the subtleties of different relationships, through gesture, sound and expression. One dictating the pace, another courting favour, yet another perhaps plotting a coup. There is humour too as the young chimps fall about the floor and play remarkably human games.
It's all acted out on this natural chimpanzee stage, and witnessing it is a true privilege.
Hike the forest paths looking for birds and butterflies, as well as the other shy mammals who quietly live there. Swim in ice-cold pools up in the mountain waterfalls, take a kayak out for a dawn paddle towards the middle of the lake; drink your morning coffee there and enjoy the sunrise coming up over the mountains.
Go for sundowners on the old wooden dhow, lazily following the shoreline and stopping to fish along the way, or just relax on the warm sands of the beach with a drink in hand.