Mature travellers will delight in the relaxed seaside ambience of Candi Dasa, located at the edge of a freshwater lagoon in eastern Bali. A popular tourist spot since the ‘70s, this seaside town is renowned for its laid-back atmosphere, and superb snorkelling and diving conditions. The most impressive dive sites are around the rocky islets of Gili Selang, Gili Biaha, Gili Mimpang and Gili Tepekong, where divers can see exquisite coral gardens, several species of sharks and, between August and October, enormous oceanic sunfish, which grow up to six feet. A visit to Pura Candi Dasa, twin temples devoted to Shiva and Hariti, set atop the hillside overlooking the lagoon, proves a fascinating expedition.