Gyeongju, known as the ‘museum without walls’, is nothing short of enchanting, its urban landscape rich with traditional architecture, distinctive round grass tombs (called tumuli), temples, rock carvings, statues, ruins and pagodas embraced by rolling green mountains. Bulguk-sa temple on the slopes of Mount Toham is situated on a series of stone terraces is a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site and a must-see, as is the Gyeongju National Museum with its displays of jewellery, weaponry and ceremonial items. Pop into Golgul-sa temple for a display of Korean martial arts, hike or enjoy a trail in the Gyeongju National Park, visit Cheomseongdae Observatory, the oldest observatory in the Far East, and enjoy a host of fresh seafood at the sheltered market near Geyongju train station.