Phnom Penh is Cambodia’s capital and its most important city, set at the meeting point of the Mekong, Tonlé Sap and Bassac rivers. It’s a city of contrasts, where royal palaces, saffron-robed monks, busy markets, French colonial buildings, modern cafés and riverside life all sit alongside the country’s more difficult recent history.

The city is best explored with time and context. The Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda give a glimpse of Cambodia’s royal traditions, with elegant Khmer architecture, gilded roofs and peaceful courtyards in the heart of the city. Nearby, the National Museum of Cambodia is one of the best places to understand the artistic and spiritual heritage of the Khmer world, especially before or after visiting Angkor.

Phnom Penh also asks visitors to engage with Cambodia’s 20th-century history. The Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and Choeung Ek Killing Fields are deeply sobering, but important for understanding the resilience of the country and its people. These visits are best done with a thoughtful guide and enough time afterwards to pause and reflect.

For a lighter side of the city, wander the riverside promenade, explore Central Market or Russian Market, or stop at one of the city’s growing number of independent cafés, galleries and social enterprise shops. Phnom Penh is also one of the best places in Cambodia for food, from classic Khmer dishes to contemporary restaurants and lively street stalls.

Phnom Penh works well at the start or end of a Cambodia itinerary. It’s busy and sometimes confronting, but it’s also warm, engaging and essential to understanding Cambodia properly.