Omoide Yokocho, which translates as “Memory Lane”, is a narrow network of alleyways tucked beside Shinjuku Station. Lined with tiny yakitori grills and traditional izakaya, it offers a glimpse of post-war Tokyo and a nostalgic contrast to the surrounding skyscrapers and neon lights.

Dating back to the late 1940s, this atmospheric lane began as a black market and gradually evolved into a cluster of informal eateries. Today, around 60 small bars and restaurants sit shoulder to shoulder, many seating only a handful of guests. Lanterns hang overhead, smoke drifts from charcoal grills and menus are often handwritten.

The focus here is simple, hearty food. Skewers of chicken, vegetables and offal are grilled over open flames, alongside small plates designed to accompany beer or sake. While some establishments specialise in particular dishes, the overall feel is casual and convivial.

Omoide Yokocho is popular with both locals and visitors, and while it has become better known in recent years, it retains much of its intimate charm. It is especially lively in the evening, when office workers gather after work and the narrow lanes fill with conversation.

The area pairs well with a broader exploration of Shinjuku, including nearby Kabukicho or a daytime visit to Shinjuku Gyoen for balance.

Expert Tips

Visit in the early evening for the best atmosphere, but expect cosy seating and close quarters. Larger groups may need to split up, as many venues have limited space.

Look for places with picture menus or English options if you prefer guidance, and be aware that some smaller bars may have a modest cover charge.