This clutch of narrow streets, tucked in the shadows of Shinjuku, is lined with hundreds of low-slung dive bars with just a handful of seats, all recalling post-war debauchery.

There’s no order to the scene, and considering that bars are stacked—some at ground level, while some are located up steep, svelte staircases—it’s just as fascinating to wander aimlessly as it is to arrive with a game plan.

Recently, the area has gained popularity among visitors, so don’t be surprised if several of your fellow tipplers hail from abroad.

Many of the bars frequented by locals require a seating charge, so check before ordering a drink. Albatross and Ace’s are welcoming spaces that cater to a mixed crowd.