Ipoh is a key kick-off point for excursions to the Palau Pangkor and the Cameron Highlands, but this picturesque city, set amid lush rainforest, has plenty of its own charms too. The town saw a tin mining boom in the early 1800s that drew an eclectic mix of Asian and colonial immigrants set on finding their fortunes - but later fell into decline as its resources ebbed. In recent years, it has begun to see a second heyday: its beguiling blend of old and new world charm has begun to draw a burgeoning number of visitors. Its ancient laneways are dotted with dignified colonial buildings, restored shopfronts, and temples, standing side by side with slick modern malls and glitzy hotels. Wander along the network of heritage trails to see the best of Ipoh’s historical architecture and modern street murals; head east of the river to sample famous local culinary specialties such as 'ayam tauge' (chicken and beansprouts) and white coffee; or venture to the Gunung Rapat to see a selection of intriguing ancient cave temples.