Hakone is one of Japan’s classic mountain escapes, set in the forested hills southwest of Tokyo and loved for its hot springs, lake views, art museums and, on a clear day, beautiful glimpses of Mount Fuji. It’s easy to reach from Tokyo, but the atmosphere feels completely different, with wooded valleys, volcanic steam, winding mountain railways and traditional inns tucked into the hills.

The best way to enjoy Hakone is to follow the scenic sightseeing loop. Ride the Hakone Tozan Railway up through the mountains, continue by cable car and ropeway to Owakudani, then descend towards Lake Ashi for a gentle cruise across the water. The journey itself is part of the fun, with each section revealing a different side of the landscape.

Owakudani is one of Hakone’s most memorable sights, a volcanic valley where steam rises from the earth and the air carries a faint sulphurous smell. On clear days, the views towards Mount Fuji can be superb. You can also try the famous black eggs, boiled in the naturally heated volcanic waters.

Down by Lake Ashi, the scenery becomes softer and more reflective, with forested hills, torii gates, lakeside paths and views across the water. Hakone-jinja Shrine is one of the area’s most atmospheric stops, especially if you walk part of the old Tokaido Road, the historic route that once linked Edo with Kyoto.

Hakone is also excellent for art and gardens. The Hakone Open-Air Museum is a particular highlight, with large-scale sculptures set across lawns and mountain backdrops. The Pola Museum of Art is another rewarding option, especially on a wet day or for travellers who enjoy a slower, more contemplative visit.

Staying overnight is very worthwhile. Hakone is famous for onsen, and an evening in a ryokan, with a hot spring bath and a beautifully prepared Japanese dinner, is often one of the most memorable experiences of a Japan holiday.

Expert Tip: Luggage forwarding is useful here. If arriving at Hakone-Yumoto Station, it’s usually easier to send your bags on to your accommodation or store them at the station, then explore the sightseeing loop without carrying luggage around the mountains.